Lefevre

€2.39 for 330ml, €7.24 per litre

This cider – or cidre, to lift the name directly from the bottle – is a new kid on the block, and its arrival is most welcome. It comes from the orchards of Normandy and is hand-made in smallish batches. It has a gentler fizz than some of the more established brands and it lacks the sometimes bitter kick of alcohol that is found in cheaper options. It tastes like a good-quality apple juice, and we were in love with it from the first mouthful. It is sweet, but not excessively so, and is remarkably refreshing on a summer evening. It is not yet widely available, which will be an issue for some, while the price may be an issue for others. But you get what you pay for.

Verdict: Glorious.

Star rating: *****

Bulmers

€2.89 for 500ml, €5.78 per litre

There is something special about a pint bottle of Bulmers – even if it’s not a pint any more, it’s a 500ml bottle, which is a bit disappointing. For the Bulmers magic to happen, by our reckoning, it has to be poured over a mountain of ice on a hot summer day. Those are not the conditions in which we trial this, however, so we have to focus exclusively on the taste, and it is nowhere near as good as the high-end option we try. It is more accessible, however, and it is cheaper. And Irish.

Verdict: Perfect in a certain light.

Star rating: ****

Tesco Original Dry Cider

€3.99 for 2l, €1.99 per litre

While we frequently extol the virtue of cheap stuff, we are alarmed to discover that a flagon of cider can actually be bought for less today than when we were a lad. The main – and possibly only – thing that this product has going for it is the price. It is about a quarter of the price of the dearest option, but is that a good thing? We’re not convinced. It is very heavily carbonated and very sweet, and we don’t think we would be racing back for more if Tesco announced it was giving it away for free.

Verdict: Not for us.

Star rating: **

Scrumpy Jack

€2 for 500ml, €4 per litre

This is not a fancy dan cider like Lefevre and it lacks the ritualistic appeal of Bulmers but we still found ourselves fairly well disposed to it. It has an nice sharp flavour and is refreshingly zingy. It keeps its fizz for an impressively long time and was perfectly drinkable. It is strong and we'd be concerned about the state of our head if we drank more than a couple of cans in a single sitting. Consume sensibly and it won't do you any harm and it may make an evening watching the World Cup that little bit better.

Verdict: Middling in price and quality.

Star rating: ***