Irish climber has to leave Everest

An Irish climber has had to abandon his attempt on Mount Everest after he was evacuated from base camp in Nepal yesterday.

An Irish climber has had to abandon his attempt on Mount Everest after he was evacuated from base camp in Nepal yesterday.

Mr John Joyce (43), from Tuam, Co Galway, is expected to be flown by helicopter to Kathmandu today after he was taken down from the base camp at 17,000 feet to the village of Lobuje situated at 15,000 feet in the Khumbu valley.

The Irish expedition leader, Mr Pat Falvey, said Mr Joyce was suffering from a combination of sleep deprivation, dehydration and exhaustion after several nights spent at 20,000 feet on the mountain earlier this week.

"John's condition is not life-threatening, and his family has been informed," Mr Falvey told The Irish Times by satellite telephone.

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"He will rest and recuperate in Kathmandu over the next few days and may join us again, but he has said himself that his chances of reaching the summit now are gone."

Mr Joyce, who runs an insurance and auctioneering business in Tuam, was base camp manager for last year's Everest expedition, which was also led by Mr Falvey.

He took up mountaineering after a successful basketball career and has climbed in Scotland, the Alps, Spain, Africa, South America and the Himalaya.

He had hoped to accompany Mr Falvey and a Cork woman, Dr Clare O'Leary (33), to the 29,035ft summit of the world's highest mountain during this expedition.

The expedition has navigated the treacherous Khumbu ice fall to establish its first camp up the mountain since arriving at base camp on April 1st.

The three Irish climbers have been assisted by Sherpas Pemba and Tenzing during several days of hazardous work, and at one point there were fears that an avalanche could hit the first camp.

"I think this may have shaken John, who would have already been quite exhausted at this stage," Mr Falvey said.

Mr Joyce received initial treatment from the Himalayan Rescue Association and was then advised to make the descent to avoid the worst effects of altitude sickness.

Lorna Siggins

Lorna Siggins

Lorna Siggins is the former western and marine correspondent of The Irish Times