I have a penchant for visiting islands on one of those “pet days” that occur throughout the “bleak midwinter”. Starting off the day with a ferry crossing creates a sense of going on a holiday. Once you leave the harbour area, a distinctive silence prevails – as if the inhabitants have gone into hibernation. Bear Island fits my purposes perfectly.
The uninhabited south side of the island has a network of green roads; a result of its military history. These are joined by well-made tracks. I would posit that Bear Island’s way-marked route is one of the best maintained in the country and would be an ideal introduction for walking tyros.
The first section runs along the western entrance to Bear Haven, a major fishing port that was also, until 1938, a British naval base; it being one of the three "treaty ports" designated under the 1922 Anglo- Irish treaty. Across the channel lie the remains of Dunboy Castle, the stronghold of O'Sullivan Bere that was destroyed in 1602 by the forces of Sir George Carew.
The Spanish also occupied this area prior to the Battle of Kinsale. In 1796 the French fleet organised by Wolf Tone approached the harbour. It only managed to land a longboat (now in the National Museum) before the fleet was dispersed when a storm blew up; but for that untimely meteorological event I might well be writing this article in French as "they would not have gone away, you know", having been given the opportunity to encircle England. This is, indeed, an historic spot in which to muse before heading onward to Ardnakinna Point lighthouse, where the sparkling sea below links you to distant headlands
From here a rugged spur leads up to the ruins of a Martello tower. This is an excellent spot from which to survey the striking terrain of the area, with the town of Castletown Berehaven sprawling beneath the mighty mass of Hungry Hill. To the south the Sheep’s Head and Mizen peninsulas are prominent.
Continue across moorland to the highest hill on the island, which has been dissected by a narrow gorge through which the route runs, with the towering cliffs of Knockanannig, (267m) on the right and those of Coomastooka (248m) on the left. I reckon this is either a glacial melt-water channel or a glacial breach formed by a tongue of ice grinding southwards through a pre-existing col.
The track then connects up with the road network. If you wish to climb Knockanannig, which is the highest point, a loop starts just up the road.
A short pull up a narrow ridge will get you there and you then drop towards Doonbeg Head – with its promontory fort – before swinging back to the road and a 3km walk back to the pier. There is an excellent cafe nearby if you arrive too early.
Map: OSI Discovery Series. Sheet 84.
Start and finish: Ferry terminal in Castletown Berehaven.
Grid Reference: 680 480. This ferry goes to the west end of the island. Timetable: bearislandferries.com. If you wish to start from the east end at Rerrin the ferry terminal is 4km east of the town.
Grid Reference: 716 464. Timetable: murphysferry.com.
How to get there: Castletown Berehaven, Co Cork can be reached via the R571 from Kenmare or the R572 from Glengarriff.
Time: 4-5 hours.
Distance: single loop 11 Km; both loops 16Km.
Ascent: single loop 300m; both loops 450m.
Suitability: Easy. Boots, rain gear, map required.
