Top of the Paps

GO WALK:   Tony Doherty takes on the challenge of two aptly named peaks in the Derrynasaggart Mountains, close to the Cork-Kerry…

GO WALK:  Tony Dohertytakes on the challenge of two aptly named peaks in the Derrynasaggart Mountains, close to the Cork-Kerry border

THE FIRST sight that catches your attention as you cross the Cork-Kerry border on the N22 is a pair of magnificent mountains called the Paps or An Dá Chích Annan, the two breasts of Anu or Annan. Annan, the fertility goddess, was the principal deity of the Tuatha Dé D’Annan, the original inhabitants of Ireland.

At the tips of An Dá Chích are two large cairns of Stone Age or Bronze Age origin. One of the Paps is slightly larger than the other, as is one of the cairns – a condition that, I am reliably informed, is not unusual.

From the county border, carry on along the N22 for four kilometres – or, if you are coming on the N22 from the Killarney side, travel 15km – until you come to the turn for the village of Cloonkeen. The village is on the north side of the N22 and is well signposted. Ignore the fact that your map may show Cloonkeen on the south side of the N22.

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Just outside the village, cross over Clydagh Bridge and follow the road for about two and a half kilometres, to a large fresh cutting on the left-hand side with parking space for about 12 cars.

The cutting has been made to facilitate the clearing of the forest immediately above. If you keep to the left of the cleared area, there is a grassy firebreak that brings you up on to the open mountainside.

Once out of the forest, turn left towards the spur that leads up to the 562m spot height, which is known as Roger’s Rock. Keep to the right of the rock, as the slope is less steep here. You now have an easy hike on grass and heather to the summit of the Western Pap (690m).

There is a fence to follow as far as the 630m contour. A small cairn marks the 622m spot height along the way. From the point where the fence turns off to the left, there is an obvious narrow track that leads to the summit cairn.

The Paps are part of that great rampart of mountains, running westwards to Dingle Bay, that dominate the north Kerry plain. During the Ice Age, numerous glaciers emerged from these mountains and coalesced into a great ice sheet that scoured the lowlands and, when they melted, deposited great quantities of boulder clay. The farmland you can see stretching away into the hazy distance developed on these deposits. In every other direction there is a splendid array of peaks to be savoured.

From the summit head east down the steep heathery slope that brings you to the col with its spot height of 584m. In misty conditions be careful not to stray on to the cliffs that run down to Lough Nageeha. From here it is an easy pull on to the large summit cairn of the Eastern Pap (694m).

The best route for your descent is to keep to the spur that runs south from the summit as far as the 500m contour.

If you look carefully down into the valley on your right, you will see a path leading out of the stream crossing. A compass bearing of 200 degrees will help. The way down is steep, with irritatingly long heather masking small dips underfoot, so take it slowly.

Once you have crossed the stream, follow the boundary fence back to the firebreak that brought you on to the mountain.

So, having paid due obeisance to the goddess of fertility, it is time to sup of her bountiful fruits in Killarney or Ballyvourney.


The Paps, Co Kerry

Start and finishForest cutting in the Clydagh Valley, two and a half kilometres from Cloonkeen Church.

How to get thereFollow the N22 from the Cork-Kerry border for four kilometres or from Killarney for 15km.

TimeFour or five hours.

DistanceSeven kilometres.

Ascent700m.

SuitabilityModerate. Compass and map-reading skills essential. Bring weatherproof clothing and packed lunch.

MapOSI Discovery Series sheet 79.

RefreshmentsBallyvourney and Killarney.