What's more thrilling than tearing down a red slope? Watching your children tackle it after two days on skis, writes James Helmin the Dolomite Mountains
WHEN WE TOLD friends we were taking our little ones to the ski slopes there were a few raised eyebrows. Would we not be better off going on our own, some asked. But the sight of our six-year-old hurtling down a red run on an Italian mountainside with an instructor on only his second day on skis eliminated any doubts that had been planted in our minds.
We took our three boys, aged six, four and one (the youngest relaxed happily off piste), to Canazei, a resort in the Italian Dolomites. It was a manageable size, friendly and unpretentious, and it provided the perfect launch pad for our first parental foray into skiing.
I am not an expert skier. I came to it in my 30s, during a winter trip in the US. My style could be described as frog in a blender, all flailing limbs. Elegant I am not, but what I may lack in style I make up for with enthusiasm and disregard for danger.
So having experienced the glorious sensation of hurtling downhill on skis, I was keen for my children to have a go. Only a little more safely, wearing helmets, and perhaps a little more gracefully, too.
The sight of children whizzing past you, little flashes of colour making it all look so darned easy, is a joy to behold. They effortlessly weave down the slope as you strain every ligament to complete your turns without disappearing into the trees.
Thomas, our instructor from Canazei's ski school, was patience personified, and the boys thought he was great. In his smart blue ski suit he encouraged the boys at every turn. He didn't work them too hard and, crucially, spotted when they needed a rest. Safety, after all, has to be paramount, and children may not tell you when they're too tired to carry on.
They started out on the baby slopes, getting used to wearing boots and skis, and quickly learned how to snowplough.Our six-year-old son was soon negotiating a steep run without hesitation. There were some minor tumbles, but he got up and dusted the snow off. We stopped for the day as soon as they felt cold or tired.
By day four he was pleading to be allowed to head up on the button lift by himself. As we watched from the bottom he slalomed back down and finished up beside me at the foot of the slope with a euphoric swoosh of skis and snow.
Our four-year-old was more distracted, wanting to see where we were rather than concentrating on the positions of his skis. The deep snow was a novelty for him, and the chance to build snowmen and roll around in it was the main attraction. We joined in.
Some of the experience was akin to skiing uphill. Just as you get to the top of the longest lift, you find you have lost a glove or left behind a hat, ski, pole or snack. The trek from ski school to lift each day, while carrying three pairs of skis, was hard work. But if there was pain, there was definitely gain as well. Soaring up above Canazei, and the rest of the Fassa Valley, are the jagged peaks of the Dolomites. The setting is breathtaking, and a fresh covering of snow early in our trip made the views even better.
The children loved the lifts and the chance to gaze around. The slopes are varied, with the right mix of challenging runs and gentler slopes suitable for beginners and intermediate skiers.
We found a creche at Pecol, at the top of the main lift from Canazei, and the smiling Stefania looked after our one-year-old while we hit the slopes. The older children could loll around there, too, once their lessons were over. Lunch was on the terrace a few metres away, with the Dolomites as the backdrop.
For the two older children the exertion of a day on the slopes had a couple of desirable side effects. First, the combination of winter mountain air plus lots of energetic activity left them dog tired. Sleep arrived in seconds. Heads hit the pillow and then it was morning. Second, appetites grew. Meals were wolfed down as, like top athletes, carbs were consumed. Italy, after all, is such a great place for children's food. The staple offerings of pizza, pasta and ice cream are perfect for kids. In Canazei good tasty food was reasonably priced, unlike at some of Europe's swankier resorts. My €6 spaghetti lunch would have fed the whole Italian downhill team.
We stayed in a self-catering apartment about half a kilometre from the ski school, which was handy for shops and places to eat. There were other attractions for children: sledge rides, bouncy castles in the snow and gentler slopes on which to practise, plus a very good swimming pool and spa.
We returned with the usual bruises - and lots of happy memories. And our children came home with a skill that they will, with luck, nurture and enjoy for the rest of their lives.
If you're taking the kids skiing . . .
• It is a good idea to borrow or hire rather than buy jackets, gloves, goggles and other kit for children, as they might decide they hate skiing and never want to go again. Or they might love it but be growing so quickly they won't fit into the gear next time.
• Make sure your children wear helmets when they ski.
• Think about the time of year that you go. The snow might be better in midwinter, but for children it could be mighty cold.
• Check that you have good travel insurance in case of accidents or loss - and that your policy covers winter sports.
• One of the most important aspects of a resort is to make sure that your children get lessons.
• To avoid the effects of sun blindness from bright sun and snow, buy goggles for your children rather than have them wear sunglasses.
• Small children need two pairs of gloves. There's nothing worse than them being wet before you even get to the slopes.
• Bring lots of thin layers for the kids, as they are easy to put on or take off. They will hate skiing if they're cold or if they feel like Mr Blobby. A warm base layer, top and bottom, is vital.
• Check your gear before heading out for the day, so you don't get to the top of the mountain to find a child is missing a glove.
• Everything always takes longer with small children, so leave extra time to get to classes.
• When booking your children in for skiing lessons, check that not only the instructor but also some of the other children speak English.
Go there
James Helm and his family were guests of Topflight (www.topflight.ie, 01-2401784), which has charter flights from Dublin to Brescia Airport, near Verona.