Go Green: Catherine Mackis transported back to her childhood by a stay in a tree house in Normandy's cider country
PEOPLE FIND SOLACE in different ways. Some escape to islands, others to mountains. But I have always had a thing about trees. A spot high in the branches of an ancient chestnut was my favourite getaway as a young child at boarding school. Leaves or no leaves, the tree was always a place to hide or take stock of the world rushing around below me. But I have never gone as far as hugging one, never mind sleeping in one. Until I discovered a perch extraordinaire. Far from the Belfast branches of my distant past, this old chestnut was hidden in a meadow of Le Perche natural park, in the Orne region of Normandy.
Marching across the evening's dewy grass, we had no idea what to expect. I was a bit nervous, as it was a fit of momentary madness that had jolted me out of my autumn cabin fever to the middle of a French field in November. To a cabin. But the jaw-dropping moment was the one we all hope for when we arrive in a new place.
The red cedar of this vast tree house, nestled in the most majestic of chestnut trees, glowed in the last of the day's sunshine. Suspended on four mammoth wooden stilts, and built organically around its magnificent natural infrastructure, this was my idea of getting closer to holiday heaven; it also transported me back to my happiest childhood memories. I could almost have hugged it.
I RESISTED THEtemptation to climb up first, and let my children race up the wooden steps, ducking at the top to avoid one of the vast branches, which guarded the balcony and entrance like something from The Hobbit. The views of the surrounding area were superb, and, blessed with blue skies, we were able to see the undulating pastures and forests all around.
Inside was a dream of a den. The two bedrooms were beautifully and sensitively designed, with just enough luxury to make you feel spoilt but simple enough never to let you forget where you were. And, yes, this tree house is even heated.
There are windows on all sides, so that you can almost touch the birds as they hang from one of the many feeders. They seem to stay long enough just to check out who has invaded their space. They don't go as far as flying in, though, and there are nets on the window to keep out any visitors. A few crickets liked to make their presence known, however, and why wouldn't they? It's a tree, after all, and sometimes, just for a moment (when you are having a shower on its west branch, for example), it is easy to forget that.
On our first night we had a superb dinner at the local creperie, Les Secrets de Jeanne, in St Germain de la Coudre. It is in a restored barn, with a vast log fire, where every wall is covered with antique toys, books and French bric-a-brac. Being apple season, and the centre of the apple-producing region, we sampled an array of local ciders with our savoury crepes, and finished off the meal with caramelised apples ones, lathered with ice cream and chocolate sauce. When in France and all that.
BACK AT THEtree house, Claire, the Englishwoman who dreamed up her arboreal work of art with her French husband, Ivan, gave us a torch to lead us back across the field from her farmhouse. Not that we really needed it that night. I am not just being a romantic when I say the stars almost lit our way, because they really did. There are no big towns in this area and, consequently, little artificial light. Which is why this region is extremely popular with star-gazers and amateur astronomers.
Tucked up in our beds, the rustling leaves sounded deceptively like rain, but luckily we were spared any downpours. There was no obvious creaking of branches as the wind picked up through the night, and we slept, of course, like logs.
Being winter, the birds weren't quite as omnipresent, but the dawn chorus must be verging on philharmonic in the height of summer. The only noise to waken us was a gentle tapping on the door by Claire, who, like a little wood nymph, had crept up our stairs to leave a basketful of breakfast goodies on the balcony. Flasks of hot chocolate, coffee, warm bread from the local organic farm, yogurt, fresh seasonal fruit and home-made jams like only the French seem to be able to do.
We wrapped up in some of the blankets kindly provided and sat out on the terrace, watching the mist lift off the hills of this, thankfully, protected landscape. We were literally perched over Le Perche, and that was definitely worth raising our glasses of home-made apple juice to.
Le Perche traditionally meant "old tree", according to our guide at the park's centre, Le Manoir de Courboyer, as this area has always been heavily forested and, luckily, still is. As well as having a fine 15th-century manor house as its centrepiece, Le Manoir is the place to learn about the natural heritage of the area. It also has a restaurant brimming with fine local and seasonal foods, plus a shop with all the ciders, juices, jams and natural local produce you could hope for. You won't find one Made in China souvenir here. Tackiness is forbidden. This place lives and breathes pride in its region.
This passion for Le Perche stretches beyond the normal French pride in one's region. There is an abundance of natural producers here. L'Hermitière is one of several traditional cider producers in the area, and so, with the season that was in it, we couldn't miss out. The doors of the barn were open when we arrived, revealing a floor-to-ceiling stockpile of red apples, all waiting to be washed and pressed. There are no machines to shake apples off the trees here. They just do it as it should be done. Wait for them to fall, and they are ready. The proof was in the tasting session in their shop; and if you don't like cider you can always treat yourself to a fine bottle of calvados.
It didn't take a glass of calvados to fire up our final host. Michel Frenard was the personification of Percheron pride. He is a breeder of the Percheron horse, the region's icon, and has played a major role in the history. It is a huge, stout working horse that, until recently, was in danger of disappearing. But now several impassioned breeders, supported by the park, have put them back on the map. With no agricultural funding to help them protect this fine example of equine elegance, these breeders are motivated by a passion to keep the breed alive and kicking. Frenard taught us how to look for sadness or joy in a horse's eyes. That's what makes or breaks their chance of winning a medal at competitions, apparently. I was hard pushed to see sadness in any of his fine horses' eyes, as this man's passion for life, and protection of the natural resources in his region, seemed to infect everyone around him.
I asked if he had ever travelled to Ireland, another land of horse lovers. "I admit I have never travelled far beyond Le Perche," he said. "I have no need. I wake up every day and my local landscape brings me joy. As long as I can earn a living from it I have no need for anything else in life. Le Perche brings me all the happiness I need." I hope my translation does his passion justice, but we didn't need to understand it all anyway. We could see it in his eyes. The tears in my sons' eyes when it was time to leave our precious perch in Le Perche, pretty much said it all, too.
5 great ecoholidays for 2009
1 River Nila, Kerala, India
Responsible tourism company the Blue Yonder (00-91-80-41152218, www.the blueyonder.com) works with the Nila Foundation, which is saving Kerala's central artery, the River Nila, from pollution and erosion. The Blue Yonder also aims to preserve the way of life of small river communities. Holidays include all aspects of local culture, from cooking to music, dance and folklore, as well as rafting and hiking. Accommodation ranges from family homestays to houseboats. Five-day river holidays from £350 (€375), including accommodation, breakfast and activities.
2 Whitepod, SwitzerlandWhite canvas pods in the heart of the Swiss Alps, where you sleep under the stars, kept cosy by a wood-burning stove. With iPods and in-pod baths, this is the ultimate in eco cool. There are plenty of low-impact winter activities, a sauna and a resident chef (preparing traditional local and organic cuisine). Bookings from September 2009, as it is closed for refurbishment at the moment. 00-41-24-4713838, www.whitepod.com.
Half-board accommodation 325-525 Swiss francs (€205-€330).
3 La Rosa, Whitby, North Yorkshire, EnglandFamous for putting the camp back into camping, La Rosa's vintage caravans are a mystical melange of jewels found during years of charity-shop hunting. Showers are in a converted byre, the compost loo is in a shepherd's hut and the bath is in the orchard. The hub is a circus tent, so you get the picture. Its latest acquisition is La Rosa Hotel, perched on a cliff overlooking Whitby Bay. If it's anything like the campsite, it must be magical. 00-44-778- 6072866, www.larosa.co.uk. Double rooms from £70 (€78) per night. Campsite £27 (€30) per person per night, including bedding, gas, candles and firewood.
4 Islands of IrelandI want to get a round all them before I get too old to deal with seasickness. David Walsh, author of the stunning Oileáin(Pesda Press, £19.99) has visited 468, mostly by kayak (www.oileain.org), so I had better get started. These remote communities depend on tourism for income and maintaining their depleting populations, so we need to support them. The Manor House, a guest house and restaurant on Rathlin Island, featured in my book, Ecoescape: Ireland, but it was my editor instead of me who got to visit this little gem. So I hope to make this my starting point for 2009. 048-20763964, www.rathlinmanorhouse.co.uk. Single rooms from £30 (€33), doubles from £60 (€66).
See also www.irelandsislands. com.
5 Paradise Bay Resort, GrenadaThis ecolodge, with windmill and solar energy, is on an island devastated by 2004's Hurricane Ivan. Midnight turtle-watching trips, ocean kayaking, beach massages, dolphin watching and rainforest walks are all on the menu. Oh, and a trip to the world's smallest chocolate factory. Fairtrade, of course. It's a carbon-heavy trip, but it pays the cost of offsetting your flight for you. 00-1-473-4058888, www.paradisebayresort.net. All-inclusive packages from $143.50 (€105) per person per night.
• Seven nights at La Renardière tree house costs €795 for two people with breakfast or €700 without. Weekend stays (minimum two nights) cost €250 for two people. 00-33-2-33255796, www.perche dansleperche.com.
• The Orne tourist office is at www.normandy-travel.co.uk
• Catherine Mack and her family travelled to France by train from London with Eurostar and SNCF. Contact Iarnród Éireann's European rail reservations on 01-7031885.