Wardrobe staples: How to get the basics right

A white shirt, comfortable trousers and a little black dress are fashion’s essentials


One of the most influential fashion guides called “Chic Simple Clothes” published more than 25 years ago was full of advice on exactly what constitutes a basic fashion wardrobe and about paring everything down to essentials. It is still relevant today at a time when fashion seems to be going in so many confusing directions, from spare and minimal to over the top and a mish mash of several decades – the Gucci factor. So what are the so-called essentials?

Leaving aside foundations, ie underwear, the basics constitute five items; trousers (or a skirt), jacket, coat, shirt and dress and a colour scheme that gets the most flexibility from a limited number of clothes with a neutral shade as a base. If an item costs a lot, it should be very useful and versatile – “think of packing a suitcase for a long trip” say the authors. The white shirt provides a clean frame for the face and there are guidelines as to what to look for like single needle stitching, collar detail and split shoulder yoke not to speak of the right fabric when searching for the best.

Trench coat with detachable sleeves and striped grosgrain belt €780 Marina Rinaldi, black leather bag with coloured ring handle €1,995 Marni
Trench coat with detachable sleeves and striped grosgrain belt €780 Marina Rinaldi, black leather bag with coloured ring handle €1,995 Marni
Cream wool jacket with black trim €715 and striped lace top €335 both Edward Achour, drop cuff earring €60 De La Lune. All Brown Thomas
Cream wool jacket with black trim €715 and striped lace top €335 both Edward Achour, drop cuff earring €60 De La Lune. All Brown Thomas

Trousers – whether denim, flannel, flared, cropped or slouchy – need to be the right shape for comfort and fit. It goes without saying that a trench coat and a little black dress are the most versatile items of all – their origins going back over a century say everything about their enduring allure and adaptability. From about €50 to over €2,000 for a big designer number, there are prices, variations on shape and colour for everyone.

Trousers with sport stripe detail €499 Escada
Trousers with sport stripe detail €499 Escada
Navy oversized linen jacket €245 and grey linen jacket €295 both Oska, white cotton vest €36 Hanro
Navy oversized linen jacket €245 and grey linen jacket €295 both Oska, white cotton vest €36 Hanro

This shoot, styled by Sinead Keenan, shows how the basics remain modern – in the variation of detail, cut and silhouette, components that weather well and remain cool and classy. Add a durable black leather jacket, a white T-shirt in 100 per cent cotton and durable denims for the best armour of all, one that will travel sartorial miles blessed by failsafe good looks and practicality.

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Black leather jacket €649 Hugo Boss, black stretch jersey knit dress €395 Armani, gold drop earrings €225 Balenciaga, black leather bag with chain link detail €1,590 Givenchy
Black leather jacket €649 Hugo Boss, black stretch jersey knit dress €395 Armani, gold drop earrings €225 Balenciaga, black leather bag with chain link detail €1,590 Givenchy
White cotton shirt with crystal button detail €295 Max Mara, pearl hoop earrings €55 Kenneth Jay Lane
White cotton shirt with crystal button detail €295 Max Mara, pearl hoop earrings €55 Kenneth Jay Lane

All clothes from Brown Thomas. Photographer Eilish McCormick assisted by Andrew Rankin, stylist Sinead Keenan assisted by Alice Coffey, hair Michael Leong, make-up Zoe Clark using Charlotte Tilbury, model Natalja Belova at Metropolitan, location Bond Street Studios.