Clear sunny skies and warm weather in Paris set the perfect mood for the spring/summer collections that opened yesterday with the first major show from Dries Van Noten.
The Belgian designer forsook the gilded opulence of Hôtel de Ville, where he has been showing for the past seasons, for an abandoned hangar in the 11th arrondissement near the Père Lachaise cemetery. His flamboyant collection, dubbed Uptown Taboo, sparkled with sequins and embellishment.
The collection was, as usual, less about innovative cut and more about luxurious materials brought together in his painterly way for summer wear that literally shone with desirable pieces – though the occasional bra top in disco red sequins was a cheeky touch.
Glitter motifs
Bomber jackets with sequinned fronds, blue-and-gold brocade skirts enriched with embroidery and deep green glitter motifs lighting up black silk duster coats were typical of the way he elevated everyday items - even the shoes (though not so successfully), with rich and lavish fabrics.
Try pairing a pair of gold-and-white cropped trousers with a multi-coloured knit vest over a sheer purple printed bodysuit, and you get the idea.
Stern models
Sparkly tops and yet more sequins were in evidence at the first show by up-and-coming young French designer Christelle Kocher in the cavernous halls of Les Halles.
Her stern models strode out purposefully in flat shoes in sparkly multi-coloured vests and racerback dresses patchworked with crochet and other handwork that emphasised craftsmanship in a lighthearted way. It was colourful, energetic with modern street appeal and attitude.
There was less street appeal in Sharon Wauchob’s spring collection in which filmy spaghetti-strapped lace dresses decorated with fringes and black lingerie skirts seemed flimsy rather than flirtatious.
Her playful way with pleating was more successful in long dresses in putty-coloured silk and loose gold-buckled black silk coats, but best of all were her suedes – a coat in leaf-green suede and another in chamois were more realistic daywear items in an otherwise disappointing collection from the Irish designer.
