One of the simplest and most enjoyable elements of my job is eating. As a chef, the best way to improve and develop your palate is to constantly eat and taste, ideally in places that are cooking at a higher level than you are. When it comes to columns, cookbooks and TV series, it’s important to be out and about, tasting and trying, note-taking and photographing. Luckily, my work regularly brings me around the world, offering a rare chance to grow my repertoire beyond the confines of this island. If I see something abroad, I’ll happily take the idea and present it at home, making it my own.
This week we have two dishes inspired by recent restaurant meals. One from home, one from farther afield. On a recent visit to Allta on Dublin’s quays, I was blown away by a cavatelli pasta dish with barbecued lamb shoulder, buttermilk espuma and a salad of parsley, onion and capers. It was sensational and delicious. The restaurant itself is a great vibe, and well worth a visit. In attempting to recreate the recipe, we tried five separate shops but couldn’t find cavatelli to buy‚ so gnocchi will have to suffice. Braising the lamb in some chicken stock and reducing it for a powerful glaze is what makes it, while the addition of crème fraîche to the gnocchi glaze cuts through the fatty lamb. Capers, onions and parsley bring the whole thing to life. I hope I’ve done it justice.
The second dish is really simple, but relies on great ingredients. Sourcing the squid ink pasta brings a touch of restaurant to the home kitchen but you can of course use plain spaghetti. The emulsion of the olive oil, garlic and chilli with the pasta water creates the magic flavours that coat the pasta. If prawns aren’t your thing, you can replace with bacon lardons or just make it without any protein. This one is inspired by the simple flavours and dishes of southern Italy.
