Let's go clubbing

Wine clubs are a good way to meet new friends who are enthusiasts, not snobs

Wine clubs are a good way to meet new friends who are enthusiasts, not snobs

WINE CAN BE a very expensive hobby. As we are all too painfully aware, it is taxed to the hilt in this country, so even everyday easy-drinking wine remains a treat for many. Most of the good stuff costs considerably more, making it very difficult to experiment and learn more about the joys of wine, but one way is to join a wine club. Some people find the first few meetings a bit intimidating, but it is worth persevering. A wine club offers a great opportunity to taste, learn and buy the off-beat, more interesting wines, as well as being a way of making new friends.

It is easy enough to set up your own club; all you need are six or more willing members. You will be surprised by how far a bottle will go – with a little care, you can pour 16 generous samples from a single bottle. I have seen 20 “pours” extracted from a bottle, but this was pushing it. A wine club takes time and a bit of effort, so make sure that you spread the work around. If there are 12 of you, give one member the task of buying the wines, doing the research, and hosting the monthly meeting. It is an advantage if you live within walking distance of each other; even if you use the spittoon (and in my experience, not many clubs do) you will take in some alcohol every time you taste. Far better to use public transport or walk.

I know there are a huge number of private wine clubs operated by colleagues in workplaces or just by friends. A great many shops have their own clubs, some of them very active, as do online wine sites. Below are four “sample” clubs, part of a network of groups all over the country. If any clubs care to e-mail their details, I will publish a list of clubs that are open for membership in August, when most clubs think about doing business after the summer break.

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Wexford Wine Circle

The Wexford Wine Circle was founded in 1989. In its heyday, it boasted 92 members, although this has shrunk to around 65. Secretary Tom Brazil reckons 70 is the perfect number, as you will be lucky to get a 50 per cent turnout for any meeting. The club generally has a guest speaker, usually from the wine trade. We try to get away from the standard formula of just one region, such as Bordeaux, the Rhône or Australia each night; we prefer to mix it up a bit and taste across boundaries. For me, a wine club offers a great opportunity to taste the new and the different, wines that you would like to try but might not necessarily buy unless you have tasted them. I have tasted a vast array of wine – I now know what I like and, more importantly, why I like it. I have learned to be a little bit more discerning, and now have a great appreciation of what is good, and what is good value out there.”

They try to avoid being elitist, and believe that wine clubs should be open to all. Membership is €50 a year, with a fee (usually around €15) per meeting. They also hold a summer dinner, and a winemaker dinner with Bill Kelly in Kelly’s Resort Hotel at the end of the Wexford Opera Festival. They are currently open to new members. Contact Tom Brazil on 086-8209964 or e-mail yardcolm@eircom.net.

Premier Cru Wine Club

The Premier Cru wine club is one of the most highly rated wine clubs in the country, having spawned a number of wine professionals since its inception in 1991. It has won various competitions, including the Wine Apron (once a tasting competition between wine clubs), and trips to Jerez and Australia for its members. It meets once a month at the Grand Hotel in Malahide, Co Dublin.

The club has around 20 members, and is not looking to expand, although membership has been as high as 44. This, says DJ McCloskey, the current secretary “is borne of a financial need. You need to hit the sweet spot, where one bottle is enough to cover those present, without too much left over.” Membership is €200 a year, and covers the cost of wines. They have a mix of presenters, some wine retailers or importers, but also members presenting their own favourites. “Some of these have been the best evenings, as they invite livelier, freer discussion about the wines,” according to McCloskey. The current recession has had certain advantages for wine clubs. “In recent years, it has been harder to get some importers to come along. I think they found it too easy to sell their wines. But now they seem very keen to show their wares.”

As for new members: “They are going to be a bit shocked if they don’t know about wine,” says McCloskey. “Some members have a huge knowledge about producers, and will ask very detailed questions about a wine. However, we are not about snobbery, but passion. Most newcomers to wine have really taken to it very well. The biggest advantage of the club is the exposure to expertise; it also allows you to taste widely, and to come across good wines at a low price.”

Ennis Wine Club

The Ennis Wine Club meets eight times a year, generally in the Templegate Hotel in Ennis. A smaller group, with between 15 and 20 members, they appear to cover a range of interesting topics, as well as having a number of trips away each year.

The more esoteric subjects covered last year included wine and cheese, the wines of Provence, organic wines, a wine film night, and Swiss wines. This year’s trip was to Rioja, and there is also a tasting weekend in Paris planned.

The club secretary, Bryan Hamilton, says they are on the lookout for new members. “We are fairly relaxed about new members’ level of knowledge. A little is a help, but enthusiasm is more important.” He generally finds the wine industry very helpful with tastings, samples and information. If you are interested in becoming a member, contact Hamilton on 087-6868423, e-mail bryanshamilton@eircom.net or Victor Leyden on 086-8520974, e-mail hlavictor@eircom.net.

Cork and Bottle Wine Club

One of the largest and oldest in the country, the Cork and Bottle Club was founded in 1984 by the late Dr John O’Connell, a radiologist and wine lover. There are now more than 60 members, although “some come only twice a year for our winter or summer dinners”, according to club secretary Arthur Carroll. Generally 35 to 40 people turn out for a tasting. Although most tastings are tutored by wine importers, there are also club nights, covering topics such as wines for under €10, and Riesling around the world. Membership is €120, which covers all tastings, but not the two dinners, and trips away (this year to Verona). Membership is currently open: contact Carroll on 087-2597886 for details.

jwilson@irishtimes.com

John Wilson

John Wilson

John Wilson, a contributor to The Irish Times, is a wine critic