Does your phone keep popping up photos of holidays gone by? Mine does, and while they may bring back happy memories of summers past, they are also a reminder that I won’t be travelling anywhere this summer. It is nice to dream though, so this week and next, I will take a virtual trip to a wine producing region that is popular with Irish holidaymakers too.
Minervois is one of those familiar wine names that people find hard to locate on a map. It is set back from the coast, going north-eastwards up into the mountains from Carcassonne in the Languedoc. On two occasions, I have lost my way on the winding roads in this sparsely populated region, wondering how any plant could survive here in the bare, bright, white rocky mountainsides.
One was on a buying trip trying to find a new producer. People were scarce as was any signage for hamlets or wineries. The wine was worth the stress once I tracked down the producer, in a small cottage overlooking the valley below. The second time I was on a holiday and in more relaxed form.
I find wines from La Livinère generally have a freshness, an acidity and sometimes an elegance not often found in Minervois wines, but much depends on the grower
As with many parts of the Languedoc, there is a mass of inexpensive wines produced in Minervois, usually by a co-operative or a large negociant, as well as some interesting wines from more ambitious small estates. Minervois is a large area, with all sorts of soils and climates producing a wide variety of wines – there are actually five sub-zones but I defy any wine buff to name them. Most Minervois is red, but white, rosé and sweet wines are also produced.
In 1999 the area of La Livinière was granted a separate appellation of Minervois- La Livinière; more recently it discarded the Minervois part. Languedoc supremo Gerard Bertrand has a number of properties here including his top wine, Clos d’Ora (€180 a bottle from O’Briens). Burgundian royalty Anne Gros and Paul Tollot have an estate here too, as do the Cazes family of Château Lynch-Bages fame.
I find wines from La Livinère generally have a freshness, an acidity and sometimes an elegance not often found in Minervois wines, but much depends on the grower. In general, I find the red wines of Minervois softer and more supple than neighbouring Corbières.
For this article I tasted a dozen or so Minervois; the styles varied but all were very enjoyable. As well as those featured here, look out for the soft smooth Chatelain Ramel 2018 Grand Cuvée (€13-€15 Dunnes Stores and independents) and the soft rounded Château Remaury 2019 (€12.95, O’Briens). All four of the producers below also have very good but more expensive wines in the €19-€30 price bracket.
Domaine de la Borie Blanche 2019, Minervois
14%, €15.99
Smooth sweet ripe red fruits with an attractive spiciness coming through on the finish. The La Livinière (€18.99) is also very good. Try it alongside pork chops with Herbes de Provence and black olives.
Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, jusdevine.ie; Martin's Off Licence, D3, martinsofflicence.ie; JJ O'Driscoll, Ballinlough, jjodriscoll.ie; Joyce's Supermarket,joycesupermarket.ie; 1601 Off-licence, Kinsale; La Touche, Greystones,latouchewines4u.ie; Clontarf Wines, D3, clontarfwines.ie; Donnybrook Fair,donnybrookfair.ie; Grapevine, Dalkey, onthegrapevine.ie; Wineonline.ie
Domaine Cailhol Gautran Minervois 2019 Cantus Vitus
14.5%, €16
Supple, youthful, concentrated, fresh dark fruits, with liquorice and spice. Great value for money too. Try this with a warming cassoulet or grilled lamb.
Stockist: Whelehan's Wines, Loughlinstown, whelehanswines.ie
Château Coupe-Roses Bastide 2019, Minervois
13.5%, €16.75
Elegant and fresh with piquant dark fruits, nicely poised, with a dry finish. Drink alongside some grilled Toulouse sausages with puy lentils.
Stockists: Sheridan's Cheesemongers, D2, Kells, Co. Meath, Galway, sheridanscheesemongers.com, SIYPS.com; Margadh, Howth, margadhfoodandwine.ie; Rua Deli, Castlebar, caferua.com; Barrow Market, D4, barrowmarket.ie; Lennox Street Grocer, D8, Lennoxstreet.ie
Domaine l'Amourier Minervois 2019, Luc Lapeyre Organic
13.5%, €16.85
Concentrated, herby, ripe dark fruits with good acidity, and a good tannic bite on the finish. Drink with a roast of lamb with herbs and garlic or bean stews.
Stockists: Wines Direct, Mullingar, winesdirect.ie
