A few months ago a plant pot fell from a high shelf on to my daughter Katherine in a restaurant. She escaped unscathed, though it did briefly recall that scene in Slow Horses (on Apple TV+), where a tin of pink paint plummets on to a bald head with terminal efficiency. Katherine’s only surprise was that the “soil” in her meal turned out to be actual soil. The pot landed squarely on a framed print of the Michelin man declaring: “You’ll eat where I f**king tell you to eat.” I’m pot-adjacent on the curved end of a mustard banquette in Rei Momo as she recounts the story, but it seems secure and in no danger of a comparable performance.
Rei Momo began as a pop-up after Bootleg closed and has settled into its skin. It’s a Brazilian wood-fire grill and caipirinha bar, run by Rob Hayes (Big Fan), Geoff Nordell (Egan’s) and Thom Lawson (Sprezzatura). The room has the warm, offbeat energy of a São Paulo bar crossed with a retro European cafe – burnt orange, ochre and olive walls, glossy green floor catching the street light through the capacious front window. Small square tables hold little more than glasses, cutlery and red menus.
A long bar runs along the back wall, glowing under amber pendants, stacked with cachaça bottles and beer crates, a chalkboard listing weekly specials above. The ceiling is a collision of steel beams and glass chandeliers – some green and scalloped and one vintage crystal – a mix of industrial structure and carnival flourish. It’s a room made for noise, music and caipirinhas. There are six different types on the menu, and yes, that is exactly where we start with a classic (€13) and a spicy caipirinha (€13).
The habanero in the spicy creation is a genius stroke, and the pão de queijo (€7) – three warm, golf-ball-sized domes of Brazilian cheese bread, still steaming, with crusts dusted with chives and Parmesan – the perfect accompaniments. These are must-order items.
Keshk restaurant review: BYOB veteran still smoking after many years, just at higher prices
Lucy Cafe review: Flavours of Ukraine in Dublin 8, shaped by loss, love and the hands of nonnas
The Queens restaurant, Dalkey: One of the most bizarre finales to a meal I’ve had in years
Capparelli at The Mill review: Ottolenghi-backed restaurant outside Belfast is truly wonderful
[ Ireland’s new fast casual food: 10 top dishes to grab and goOpens in new window ]
The pastel (€11) lands on the table looking like a deep-fried envelope stuffed with secrets. Inside, the leek and Mount Leinster cheddar filling is creamy and savoury, lifted by the leek. The salsa on the side is bright and sharp – lime, onion, pepper and coriander. Another essential.
The repolho verde (€12) – grilled hispi cabbage with red chimichurri – has crisp, smoky outer leaves, just enough char without bitterness, while the inner layers collapse softly, almost buttery. The chimichurri is sweeter than expected, more red pepper than vinegar.
The menu centres on the churrasco – peri-peri chicken, garlic-butter chicken hearts, prawns, ribs with guava barbecue, picanha, lamb chop and pork chop with pineapple – but it’s Wednesday, one of two days when they serve feijoada tradicional (€15pp), Brazil’s national dish, also offered on Sundays. It arrives as a full spread – a rich stew with slow-cooked black beans, smoked sausage, beef and pork ribs. It is flanked by all its sidekicks: coconut milk rice topped with crispy onions and chives, fried kale, pork crackling, orange slices, cassava crumbs and the same sharp salsa served with the pastel. It’s earthy and layered, more smoky than spicy, with the beans binding everything in a glossy black sauce.
The vegetarian feijoada (€15pp) delivers the same slow-cooked depth and smoke – all the flavour, none of the meat. The fun is in the assembling: spooning on rice, sprinkling farofa, adding a flash of orange or salsa. It’s comfort food in full carnival mode – hearty, generous and cooked with patience.
We finish with pastel de doce de leite (€7) – long, twisted strips of fried pastry standing upright in a pewter pot, glistening with dulce de leche. They’re dusted with cinnamon sugar, a touch of salt, and a scatter of crushed peanuts for crunch served with a warm Nutella-dulce de leche sauce for dipping. It’s playful and over the top, the kind of thing that, once spotted crossing the room, you immediately decide you’re ordering next.
Head chef Bruno Della Piazza, a native of Mato Grosso in central Brazil, runs the kitchen with the calm of a man who knows fire solves most problems. Rei Momo feels made for Christmas get-togethers – bright, boisterous, full of life – powered by a VOID Air Vantage Soundsystem that turns dinner into celebration. It’s the rare restaurant that doesn’t just serve food, but mood. Rei Momo is the place to go when you’ve had enough of tasting menus and long explanations. You simply order, eat, drink and laugh.
Dinner for two with two cocktails was €93.
The verdict A celebration of grill smoke, cheese bread and caipirinhas.
Food provenance Wrights fish and crab, Rings Farm free-range chicken and McLoughlin’s pork (not free-range) and beef.
Vegetarian options Grilled cabbage, pão de queijo, pastels and vegetarian feijoada.
Wheelchair access Fully accessible with an accessible toilet.
Music Loud but brilliant – modern Brazilian, with Tayc and others setting the pace.
