When it comes to restaurant turnover, One Ballsbridge has seen more than its fair share of big-name casualties. First, there was Dylan McGrath’s Shelbourne Social, followed swiftly by Richard Corrigan’s The Park Café. Now, Oliver Dunne is stepping into the breach with his latest venture, and it’s hard to say if he’ll fare any better in this sizeable, seemingly cursed location.
The restaurant interior is certainly a sight to behold. Hanging plants cascade from above, interspersed with lampshades in every conceivable shape and size, a veritable display of botanical flair. It’s impressive, a bit like dining in an over-watered jungle designed to keep the local ecosystem in check.
As for the menu, Dunne goes all in for Wagyu beef. While undoubtedly a luxury ingredient, the reliance on this premium steak feels at odds with what one might expect from a more varied menu in a restaurant of this scale. Prices range from €35 for a picanha to €75 for a rib-eye. Seafood options such as Dublin Bay prawns come in at €34, while the pasta dishes, like paccheri with Parmesan and spinach emulsion, offer a more affordable choice at €16 to €19. The absence of classics like fish and chips or a traditional fish pie leaves diners with fewer accessible options, perhaps under the assumption that the clientele in posh Dublin 4 demands nothing less.
The wine list has been given some thought, and although the entry level choices are fairly pedestrian, you’ll find Burgundies and premium Chardonnays like Kumeau River and Hamilton Russell. There are also plenty of reds to go with the steak. Looking at a more modest budget, I go for a bottle of Chical Verdejo (€34).
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For starters, the Lambay Island crab (€13.50) served on “millionaire fries” (crisp potato pave) is a generous portion of fresh-tasting crab, although the potatoes feel like a clunky pairing, bread would be a more natural complement. Tweaking it with a little less dill would allow the subtle flavours of the crab to come through.
Lobster éclair with spiced bisque (€16), a take on a lobster roll, is more generous than many I have encountered this year. Although the pieces of lobster are small, there is plenty of tail and claw meat, and no additional elements like celery to bulk it out. The bisque is mild, but tasty.
The mains are a bit mixed. A generous portion of halibut, which is reasonably priced at €28, is nicely golden and perfectly cooked. Thin slices of radish add some visual appeal but the leeks are just a little bit overcooked and the strands of samphire, which season the dish cleverly with a touch of brine, would have benefited from trimming back further.
The “free farmed” pork fillet with confit belly (€28) has me questioning the provenance of the meat which has an overly strong, almost gamey flavour. It is intensified by nduja, and maybe this is what overpowers the dish. With a reduced Bordelaise sauce for the pork belly, it is very much a feed for a frosty night.
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A generous slice of sticky toffee pudding (€9) comes laden with caramel sauce. It could have been just a little bit hotter to give off those home comfort vibes but it’s tasty and a pleasant end to our meal.
The crowd on this Wednesday night is buzzing with a mix of business dinners, small groups, and the odd birthday celebration.
Dunne is a smart operator who knows his market, and I’ve no doubt that his new restaurant, with all its plants and Wagyu beef, will be busy in the run-up to Christmas. The pricing is, for the main part, reasonable, the fundamentals of the food are there, but I would not be surprised if there are a few tweaks to the menu. While it may still be finding its footing, it’s poised to be a hit if it can strike the right balance. With €12 cocktails and the space for large tables it’s the place to head with a gang of pals for a fun evening.
Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €128.50.
The verdict Bistro dishes in a glam buzzy room.
Food provenance McCaren’s pork, Kingsbury Wagyu, Manor Farm, Glenmar, Shellfish de la Mer, and Keelings.
Vegetarian options Croquettes, stracciatella, and paccheri pasta.
Wheelchair access Fully accessible with an accessible toilet.
Music Donna Summer and 1990s dance remix.
