What’s on offer?
Leo Burdock has been dishing out fish and chips since 1913. It has survived wars, stayed open through the 1916 Rising, but couldn’t beat wartime shortages – by 1939, only the Christchurch original remained. It is still there and remains takeaway only. Over the years it has developed as a franchise, with branches offering eat-in options in Temple Bar, Bray, Howth, and Naas, plus a takeaway-only outlet in Cookstown.
It claims to have been “sourcing the freshest fish for over 100 years”. Generations of Dubliners have queued for their thick-cut fish and beef-dripping chips, as have a fair few celebrities. Bruce Springsteen – its most famous diner – is among those who have made the pilgrimage.
The chips are still fried in beef fat, but the fish-cooking process has evolved to enable a faster turnaround when queues form. All fish is battered and lightly cooked earlier in the day, kept in a blast chiller, then finished to order. The main menu includes cod, sole, scampi, and goujons with chips. Non-fish items include chicken nuggets, battered sausage and battered burger. There is no indication of provenance.
What did we order?
Cod and chips, sole, battered burger and tartare sauce.
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How was the service?
We arrived at a quiet time of day. Service was chatty and prompt, and our food was piping hot.
Was the food nice?
Portions are generous, with one order of tasty chips spread across the fish and battered burger. Tartare sauce comes in a plastic packet – not home-made.
The sole had a lighter-coloured batter and was cooked well. The cod spent a little too long in the bubbling oil, resulting in a darker, thicker batter that was slightly greasy, encasing fish that was just a bit mushy and overcooked. It was my first time trying a battered burger. I can appreciate that these might be a “thing,” but I found it low quality.
What about the packaging?
Orders now come in plain paper instead of yesterday’s headlines and are packed in a paper bag.
What did it cost?
€32.40 for dinner for three people: cod and chips, €14.95; sole, €9.95; battered burger, €5.50; and tartare sauce, €2.
Where does it deliver?
Opening hours in Christchurch: daily, noon-11pm. Order directly or on Deliveroo, Just Eat or Uber Eats; delivery is within a 5km radius. Check stores for details.
Would I order it again?
Yes, if in town, I’d pick it up and sit out by Christchurch. That said, it’s considerably below the brand’s general reputation and trades on a legacy that isn’t quite at the level it once was. It wouldn’t benefit from delivery.
