Although we associate malbec with Argentina, its original home is in southwest France. In Bordeaux, it is sometimes included in a blend alongside cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. In the Cahors region, where it was traditionally known as côt or auxerrois, malbec reigns supreme, providing a minimum of 70 per cent of a blend and often 100 per cent. It made its way to Argentina via Chile in the mid-19th century, where it thrived.
Malbec from South America tastes nothing like malbec from France. Cahors tends to be savoury and at times earthy, with firm tannins on the finish. Malbec from Argentina is typically deeply coloured and fragrant with vibrant, juicy ripe dark fruits, plenty of alcohol, a seductive smoothness and soft tannins. It has taken the world by storm over the last decade and is now recognised as Argentina’s flagship grape.
In Argentina, the high-altitude vineyards within Mendoza, Cafayate further north, and Patagonia to the south produce wines that have concentrated fresh dark fruits and a fine acidity. One of my most memorable wine visits ever was to Bodegas Colomé in Salta; after an hour-long drive along a rutted dirt track, we came to a small isolated village, a luxury hotel, an art gallery, and some of the highest and oldest vineyards in the world. The wines were spectacular. I feature one below.
There is no shortage of inexpensive malbec from Argentina. The most popular include the medium-dry Dadá range, most of which contain a healthy dose of malbec, including a white version. Each of the multiples has a decent range at €10-€15, and most of them offer good value for money.
Specially Selected Buenas Vidas Patagonian Malbec 2024
13.5%, €10.99
Lifted aromas, piquant concentrated dark fruits and a lightly tannic finish. A steak would be the traditional accompaniment, but any red meat would work nicely.
Aldi
Les Polissons 2023 Malbec Cahors, Benoit Aymard Organic
13%, €20.95
A delicious juicy light red with plenty of moreish ripe dark fruit and a smooth finish.
Mitchell & Son, Dublin 2, and, Sandycove, Co Dublin; Avoca Dunboyne, Co Meath, and Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow; MacCurtain, Cork; Carry Out, Tramore, Co Waterford
Altos Las Hormigas Organic Mendoza Malbec Clásico 2022
13.5%, €23.95
Perfumed raspberry, strawberry and red cherry fruits. Medium-bodied with good acidity and soft tannins. Drink alongside pork chops or roast Mediterranean vegetables.
Wineonline.ie; Woodberry Wines, Galway; Power & Co, Lucan, Co Dublin; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 2
Bodega Colomé Estate Series Salta Malbec 2022
14.5%, €31.95
Rich and powerful yet elegant, with intense pure ripe blackcurrant and plum fruits, finishing on a lovely mineral note. Wonderful wine. Enjoy it with grilled red meats.
Mitchell & Son; Power & Co; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3; Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin; Wineonline.ie
