The wine business is in crisis but these whites might be the thing to save it

Millennials and Gen Z are dictating the direction of the wine market, so maybe everybody else should just hop on board

Are these white wines the way of the future?
Are these white wines the way of the future?

The wine business is going through something of a crisis at the moment as worldwide consumption maintains a steady downward curve. According to the OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine), sales in 2024 are estimated to have been 214.2 million hectolitres – a decrease of 3.3 per cent from 2023. This would be the lowest volume recorded since 1961. According to EU figures, France alone is drinking 65 per cent less than in the 1960s.

However, the decrease has been mainly in red wines. Sales of white, rosé and sparkling wines have been steady, even increasing slightly in some years. There is some evidence that growers in traditionally red wine regions such as Bordeaux are ripping up their red vines and planting white instead.

Millennials and Gen Z are the key groups here. Instead of sitting down to long dinners accompanied by red wine, they prefer to drink wine by itself or with plates and side dishes. They are aware of the dangers of alcohol, and drink selectively, on special occasions. They prefer organic or sustainable drinks and want to know about the producer. Social media influences drinking patterns and choices.

In general the two groups prefer lighter white, or rosé wines with good acidity, plenty of aromas and a bit of texture; wines that will go with the variety of flavours that comes with a mix of small plates and side dishes. They enjoy colourful labels and low-intervention wines. They are also drinking more cocktails, craft beers, low- or no-alcohol drinks, and enjoy ready-to-drink (RTD) and canned cocktails. This week, I present four wines that should appeal to millennials, Gen Z and the rest of us too.

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Viognier Côte 128, Pech Sévignac Viognier 2023 IGP pays d’Oc

13.5%, €12

This sustainably produced wine is fresh with a vibrant acidity and succulent mouthwatering peach fruits. To drink with fish, creamy chicken and pork dishes. Excellent value for money.

Dunnes

Parcelles 2024, Sauvignon Blanc IGP Val de Loire

12%, €17.50

A light, aromatic and refreshing sauvignon with some nice rich exotic fruits on the palate. Perfect for sipping or with mixed snacks.

Wicklow Wine Co, Wicklow; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, Co Dublin; Red Island, Skerries, Co Dublin; Morton’s, Dublin 6

Dandy De Cidrô Branco 2023, Douro

10%, €20

Low in alcohol. Delicate and fragrant with light, fresh crisp citrus and pear fruits. A lovely aperitif with nibbles.

La Touche Wines, Greystones, Co Wicklow; The Vintry, Dublin 6; MacGuinness, Dundalk, Co Louth; Leonard’s, Trim, Co Meath; Redmonds, Dublin 6; Nolan’s, Dublin 3; Fionn Eile, Dublin 7; Pinto, Dublin 7; McHugh’s, Dublin 5

Momento Chenin Blanc Verdelho 2021 Western Cape

13%, €36.95

Elegant with a pure melon nose, intense fresh mineral, lemon pie, melon and spice, with real concentration and a nice bite on the finish. Very stylish wine.

Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 2; Martins, Dublin 3; Rainbownatiowines.ie; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock