A few weeks ago, I wrote about Albariño, a Spanish/Portuguese grape variety that has taken Ireland by storm. But Galicia, in the northwest corner of Spain has plenty of other exciting local grapes, white and red, that deserve our attention. Godello is one variety that is growing in popularity and has the potential to produce some of the finest wines in Spain.
At one stage in the 1970s, godello almost died out, with only a few hundred vines remaining. It was saved from extinction by two local viticulturists who set up a project to revive the variety and convince producers that it had potential. And potential it certainly has. Godello is grown in various parts of Galicia, neighbouring Bierzo, and in Portugal, where it is known as gouveio.
However, the region that produces the most and the best godello is Valdeorras. Valdeorras means ‘valley of gold’. The Romans arrived here – and once they had mined all the gold, planted vines. Unlike Rías Baixas which is relatively flat, Valdeorras has steep terraced vineyards dug into the granite and slate soils.
The other people who put Valdeorras and godello on the map actually came from Rioja. Telmo Rodriguez and his partner Pablo Eguzkiza, two of the most influential men in Spanish winemaking, and Rafael Palacios, brother of Alvaro, all believed that the grape and soils had huge potential and began producing some scintillating wines. I have featured the excellent Louro from Palacios (€29, independents) before and include the Gaba Do Xil from Rodríguez below. Both producers also make tiny quantities of exquisite single vineyard wines. But others have followed since.
If aromatic, racy crisp Albariño is Galicia’s answer to sauvignon, then the broader more textured godello could be compared to chardonnay. It goes very well with richer fish and seafood including scallops, black sole and salmon, as well as chicken and vegetable gratins.
Specially Selected Baron Amarillo Godello 2024
13.5%, €11.99
Attractive rich-textured peach fruits with nice fresh balancing acidity. Enjoy it with chicken, salmon or cauliflower cheese.
From Aldi.
Valdeorras 2024, A Coroa
13.5%, €18.47/€31
A beautiful wine at an exceptional price. Concentrated pristine stone fruits and pears with a subtle mineral edge and a long dry finish. With seared scallops or prawns.
From WineSpark.com.
Valdeorras Gaba Do Xil 2024 Telmo Rodriguez
13.5%, €24
Fresh and racy with lime zest, pears and herbs, with a lively mineral finish. Enjoy as an aperitif or with seafood.
From Pinto, D9; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Green Man, D6; Fallon and Byrne, D2; Ely Maynooth.
Gargalo Godello 2023, Monterrei
13%, €24.95
Lightly aromatic, full-bodied and textured with exotic pineapple and peach fruits. Try this with rich salmon dishes or chicken.
From O’Briens.
