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An Irish sparkling wine and three more bottles to try from cooler climates

John Wilson: Amid climate change, we could see wine lists in restaurants feature some unfamiliar varieties

Fast forward 20 years and you are presented with the wine list in a restaurant. Instead of familiar names such as Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rioja, it might well list wines from England, Poland, Denmark, the Netherlands, Belgium, Japan, Canada and, who knows, even Ireland.

It may seem far-fetched, but most of these countries can boast a growing, and in some cases booming, wine industry that is likely to grow over the next 20 years. An extra one or two degrees is all it takes to make viticulture viable in some cooler climates.

For years, foreign journalists have asked me with a grin if Ireland produces wine. There are now half a dozen boutique Irish vineyards, with more to come. David Llewelyn, producer of the Lusca, featured here, pioneered winemaking in this country but he is no longer alone. If you would like to visit an Irish vineyard, see David Dennison’s vikingirishdrinks.com.

Other changes are likely to happen as a result of climate change. Australian wines are likely to come from cooler regions such as Tasmania. Instead of cabernet sauvignon or shiraz, established regions such as the Barossa Valley may offer nero d’avola, touriga nacional, tempranillo, assyrtiko or fiano instead. These grape varieties are currently grown in Spain, Greece, Portugal and the south of Italy. Growers will also have to deal with increased frosts, hail, wildfires and a lack of water.

Tesco Finest Steep Slopes Riesling 2022, Mosel

11%, €12 (€9 with Club Card)

From a cooler climate, fragrant delicate aromas are followed by racy pear and green apple fruits, finishing dry. Enjoy with crab, sushi or by itself.

Torres Ancestral Blanco 2022, Penedès, Organic

12.5%, €20

Made from the recovered ancient Forcada grape, grown at high altitude, this has fruit-filled herby aromas, and vibrant succulent peach and pear fruits on the palate. Try it with chicken or richer fish dishes. From: Redmonds, D6; TheNudeWineco.ie; Bradley’s, Cork; Jus De Vin, Portmarnock.

Nyetimber Classic Cuvée Multi Vintage, England

12%, €57.99-€69.99

Spicy red apples, with subtle brioche and toasted almonds, finishing dry. Very stylish fizz to enjoy with or without food. From: Worldwide Wines, Waterford; Baggot Street Wines; The Corkscrew, D2; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock.

Lusca Irish Sparkling Wine Brut Zero Blanc de Noirs

13%, €70

Pale pink in colour with a fine mousse, redcurrant and raspberry fruits, some brioche and a crisp bone-dry finish. The perfect wine to celebrate any Irish win or success. From: Celtic Whiskey, D2; Mitchell & Son; Terroirs, D4.

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