Finding an eco-friendlier way to buy and enjoy wine

John Wilson: Having a good everyday wine available on tap, from a bag-in-box, offers some real advantages

Bag-in-box is not the only alternative to the bottle; returnable glass bottles, kegs, pouches, Tetra Pak and even paper bottles are all options
Bag-in-box is not the only alternative to the bottle; returnable glass bottles, kegs, pouches, Tetra Pak and even paper bottles are all options

It seems a no-brainer. Save yourself money, trips to the recycling centre, and do your bit for the environment – all at the same time. Yet many Irish consumers are reluctant to take the plunge. I am talking about bag-in-box (BiB), an eco-friendlier way to buy and drink wine.

Apparently, we in Ireland are still wedded to the bottle. Both Aldi and Lidl have them available in the UK, but not here. I contacted three buyers from the multiples, all of whom reported very limited demand, although Marks & Spencer has a decent selection. In Sweden 56 per cent of sales are BiB, including some relatively expensive wines. I mightn’t want to drink my finest wines from a plastic pouch enclosed in a cardboard box but having a good everyday wine available on tap offers some real advantages.

Late last year, a group called WTAF (Wine trade for alternative formats) made up of almost 50 UK wine professionals, including Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson, wrote an open letter asking for change, pointing out that switching from glass to alternative packaging would reduce the carbon footprint of wine in the UK by over a third, the equivalent to taking 350,000 cars off the road.

Bag-in-box is not the only alternative; returnable glass bottles, kegs, pouches, Tetra Pak and even paper bottles are all options. With the current glass shortage (caused by the war in Ukraine, a major glass producer), there is an extra incentive to change. And yet we are reluctant to change, possibly due to lack of choice.

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“A lot of our suppliers are experimenting with BiB and cans,” says Gareth Keogh of Wine Direct. “We will have wines in cans shortly. Both are great for parties and festivals. BiB is easy to use and lasts for up to six weeks once opened. The packaging has to look smart. BiB sales are growing from a low base. It increased during Covid and people are beginning to ask the hard questions about bottles.”

Kevin O’Callaghan, wine buyer at SuperValu, points out that the new Minimum Unit Pricing legislation has made things more difficult, as they can no longer offer quantity discounts by selling BiB cheaper than the bottle price.

Mitchell and Son has five litre BiB available in red, white and rosé. “They have a steady following,” says Robert Mitchell. “Customers come in with measuring tapes to see if they will fit in their fridges. As they are surprisingly compact, they usually do.”

For me the big advantage is being able to grab a glass to enjoy over dinner without having to open a bottle.

M&S Classics Malbec, Mendoza 2021

13.5%, €22 for a 1.5 litre pouch

Medium to full-bodied with very gluggable plum and loganberry fruits. Perfect for that midweek glass with a steak or warming casserole.

From Marks & Spencer

Porta 6, 2021 Lisboa, Portugal

13.5%, €36 for a 3 litre box

One of the most popular wines in O’Briens and better value in a three-litre box. Smooth and rounded with ripe dark fruits. Drink by itself or with white meats.

From O’Briens

Le Petit Pellehaut 2021 Côtes de Gascogne Blanc

12.5%, €72.95 for a 5 litre BiB

Medium-bodied with succulent refreshing orchard fruits and a rounded finish. Perfect go-to wine for a glass before dinner or with most seafood dishes.

From Mitchell & Son

Colutta Merlot 20 Friulli, Italy

12.5%, €63.40 for a 3 litre tube

A very tasty, lightly fruity merlot with plums and dark fruits. Perfect with chicken pork and tomato-based vegetarian bakes.

From Winesdirect.ie