It has been another tough year for restaurants. The closure of Dylan McGrath’s trio, followed by Big Mike’s, underlines how hard it is for independents to hold their ground while big operators and investment funds circle and move in.
The good news is that plenty of independents remain, and that’s our focus with this winter list.
We’re celebrating the stalwarts who’ve been doing it right for years alongside the new entrants reshaping the dining scene. The list spans casual and buzzy spots, special-occasion rooms, and high-end restaurants that don’t trap you in a tasting menu. Some destinations may raise an eyebrow on price, but set against a weekend abroad, they more than hold their own.
Of course, there are more than 100 amazing restaurants in Ireland. These are the ones run with an ethos worth backing – chefs who source quality Irish produce, who lead with integrity and imagination, and who prove that good food and social conscience can go hand in hand. They are the restaurants that remind us why, even in a difficult year, Ireland is still one of the most exciting places to eat. In solidarity with the indies, Corinna, Joanne and Ali.
RM Block
New openings
Amai by Viktor
4 Harry Street, Dublin 2; 083-1357050, amaibyviktor.ie
Brazilian chef Viktor Silva brings serious ambition to Harry Street with a €79 tasting menu that feels both creative and generous. The room is elegant – parquet floors, marble bar, high sash windows – and the cooking has flair. Goat’s cheese with okra, strawberry and a clear watermelon consommé is the star on a menu that threads Brazilian ideas throughout, from moqueca-style monkfish to foie gras with coffee. Amai is bold, stylish and one of Dublin’s most exciting new restaurants. Read our review here. Corinna Hardgrave
Bakeology In
58-59 Meath Street, Dublin 8; 086-3873074, instagram.com/bakeology_in
When Argentinian Florencia Matan opened the original Bakeology, it quickly became known for its delicious alfajores filled with dulce de leche and savoury empanadas. Now there’s a second location right across the street, the bright and cheerful brunch-focused Bakeology In. Try the signature Wild Green medialuna, a croissant-like pastry filled with spinach cream, goat’s cheese, honey and walnuts, or the Tango Scramble with avocado sauce and sriracha mayo. Joanne Cronin
Beau
Unit 2, Warehouse Lane, Waring Street, Belfast BT1 2DX; +44 28 90990330, beau.restaurant
Located in a formerly vacant warehouse tucked away in the Cathedral Quarter, Lottie Noren’s all-day menu of European small plates has been the recent talk of Belfast. This young chef adeptly combines her experience from across the UK and her time competing for the North on BBC’s Great British Menu. Share plates of beef tartare with beef fat focaccia, lamb rib with hung yoghurt or pressed potato with guanciale cream in a warm and comfortable setting. JC
Borgo
The Old Bank, 162–165 Phibsborough Road, Dublin 7; 01-5477478, borgodublin.ie
The dream team of Sean Crescenzi and Jamie McCarthy have brought a true taste of Italy to Phibsborough, with a menu running from spuntini and pizzette to house-made pasta and wood-fired mains. If Borgo served nothing but its gambas – prawns seared in lemon, garlic and chilli butter – it would still be worth the trip. It’s that rare restaurant that feels equally right for a quick bite or a long night. Read our review here. CH
Capparelli at the Mill
231 Belfast Road, Belfast BT16 1UE; +44 28 9013 3395, capparelli.co.uk
Lucie and Carlos Capparelli have transformed a restored mill, 20 minutes outside Belfast, into a striking diningroom of glass and wild-flower views. Brazilian-born Carlos spent nine years cooking with Yotam Ottolenghi, who is also a backer of their business. The Italian-influenced menu includes small plates, pasta, mains and rotisserie. Aubergine with goat’s milk yoghurt, beef ragù, and aubergine pasta all impress, and the rotisserie chicken is spectacular. Read our review here. CH
Chubbys
Rear of 46 Clontarf Road, Clontarf, Dublin 3, chubbyskitchen.ie
Slow-cooked and smoked meats take centre stage at Chubbys, no surprise to fans of chef Barry Stephen’s former 147 Deli and Just Chubbys tacos. The former taco truck’s warehouse is now a snazzy sit-down spot worthy of its big, bold menu, with dishes such as 10-hour smoked short ribs, birria tacos and fried chicken that turn heads as they leave the kitchen. Good beer, wines and zingy cocktails round it all out. Ali Dunworth
Comet
3 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2; 01-4443355, cometrestaurant.com
The quail at Comet tells you everything – deboned, stuffed, lacquered, dripping into milk bread, finished with a vin jaune sauce. Kevin O’Donnell’s cooking is exact, confident, quietly brilliant, with Laura Chabal shaping the wine list and the welcome. This is precision cooking with real personality, backed by Bastible’s Barry and Claremarie FitzGerald, two of the most experienced people in the business. Dublin has a serious new contender. Read our review here. CH
[ Three Dublin restaurants added to Michelin GuideOpens in new window ]
Fawn
Main Street, Oranmore, Co Galway; 083-1526600, fawn.ie
A combination of restaurant and wine bar, Fawn is the love child of four friends –Hungarians Ervin Vamoser and Maria Ogl, and Irish chefs Jason O’Neill and Sarah Croffey. The quartet bring experience from Michelin three-star dining and a love of cooking over open fire, using the best of local produce. The extensive wine list, with its focus on wine from eastern Europe, grower champagne and French classics, is truly a delight. JC
La Strada
3 Aungier Street, Dublin 2; 089-4695983, instagram.com/lastradad2/
Manifesto may be gone, but its crew return with La Strada in a room that is styled as a Neapolitan backstreet, full of chatter. Just 15 pizzas and wine on tap keep it sharp. Quattro formaggi is indulgent but balanced, Puttanesca deluxe brings a real anchovy bite, and the Peppa Pig pushes potato, smoked mozzarella and porchetta right to the edge of excess. Read our review here. CH
Lucy
6 Clanbrassil Street Upper, Dublin 8; 085-2013197, instagram.com/lucy.dublin.ie
Ukrainian baker Mykola Kuleshov has slowly bought Ukrainian food to the heart of Dublin. Starting out with a coffee shop, he introduced us to delicious honey and waffle cakes made using recipes from his grandmother Lucy. Daytime dining came next with a menu of borscht, varenyky dumplings, and deruny potato pancakes served with bacon, sour cream and mushrooms. Now open for weekend evenings; make sure to try the chicken Kyiv. JC
Priory Market
Tallaght Enterprise Centre, Main Road, Dublin 24; priorymarket.ie
Opened in June, Priory Market gives migrant-led and small food businesses a foothold – no rent, no fit-out costs – just 15 per cent of turnover in exchange for a unit, utilities and steady footfall. It’s a mix of serious talent under one roof: Delhi2Dublin’s Indian, Bless Up’s Afro-Caribbean, Flavouritos’ Venezuelan, Seoul Kitchen’s Korean, Zaira’s Lebanese-Brazilian, Park 27’s Asian street food, Buongusto’s pasta, Mama’s Boy banh mi, plus El Milagro, Hell Fire Grill and Coke Lane Pizza. Read our review here. CH
The Pumphouse
Stephen Street, Dunlavin, Co Wicklow; 087-6506183, thepumphousedunlavin.com
Dunlavin native Liam Browne and his wife Tara Lee Logan have breathed new life into a former traditional village pub with a smart new interior and modern Irish cooking. Under chef Darragh Duffy, the restaurant, bar and brunch menus showcase an extensive range of local and Irish producers. With winter around the corner, look out for smoked beef tartare, comforting free-range chicken pot pie and hearty Sunday lunch. JC
No tasting menu, no problem
Baba’de
The Mews, Baltimore, Co Cork; 028-48112, babade.ie
In a 30-seat cottage once home to Mews restaurant, Baba’de delivers both kebabs and two-star flourishes. Ahmet Dede and Maria Archer’s offshoot swings from crisp bulgur dumplings over yoghurt foam to lamb ragout to squid erişte under whipped red pepper sauce. The Adana kebab is the standout. Some plates look like tasting-menu showpieces, others like late-night favourites – and that mix is the point. Read our review here. CH
Bearú
52 South Street, New Ross, Co Wexford; 051-420735, bearu.ie
Dinner here isn’t about choice – it’s about what the boats and farms bring in. Dave Rowley and Siobhán Ward’s three-course menu, served on Friday and Saturday, offers just three dishes per course, changing weekly with produce from Tom Cleary, Tinnock Farm and Riversfield Farm. Expect solid bistro cooking – pork belly with scallop, prosciutto-wrapped monkfish and yoghurt panna cotta with blackberries. By day it’s a cafe, starting with breakfast and moving into lunch. CH
Cush
The Courtyard, Main Street, Midleton, Co Cork; 021-2455777, cush.ie
Ballycotton’s loss is Midleton’s gain following Cush’s recent move inland. But even so, the lure of the sea remains strong in Dan Guerin’s kitchen with a continued focus on seafood cooking. Ballycotton mackerel is paired with ado blanco, west Cork roast scallop with crown prince pumpkin and wild roast halibut teams up with seaweed butter. Meat lovers can look forward to Skeaghanore duck or a dry-aged beef chop for two from Murphy’s butchers. JC
Everett’s
22 High Street, Waterford, Co Waterford; 051-325174, everetts.ie
Chef Peter Everett does not offer a tasting menu in his eponymous restaurant but he does offer keenly priced lunch, pre-theatre and lunch menus. When not supporting his favourite Waterford FC, this chef produces elegant modern Irish dishes using local produce such as Wexford scallops, Tuskar crabmeat and Comeragh mountain lamb. It is located in a 15th-century historic building, and the downstairs wine vault room is perfect for parties and large groups. JC
Farmgate
17 Main Street, Lismore, Co Waterford; farmgate.ie
Seafood chowder, halibut with leek and mussel sauce, and duck leg confit with spring onion champ tell you what Farmgate is about – local produce cooked without fuss. Owner Sally O’Brien has made a handsome diningroom of this heritage building, with a long counter for walk-ins and a smaller room at the back. Meat comes from McGrath’s butchers in Lismore, fish from Atlantis in Wexford, vegetables from The County Store in Dungarvan and bread from Dún Bakery and Harrington’s. Read our review here. CH
Forêt
8-9 Sussex Terrace, Leeson Street Upper, Dublin 4; foret.ie
At Forêt, the French onion soup is dark as stout and the free-range chicken au vin jaune is succulent, cloaked in bronzed, crackling skin. It is delicious bistro food, which is no surprise, considering the team behind it are John and Sandy Wyer of Forest Avenue. Paul Brogan, who previously worked in Forest Avenue and as head chef in Variety Jones, now heads up the kitchen, using top-quality produce from McNally family farm, Winetavern farm, and Glenmar seafood. Read our review here. CH
Goldie
128 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork; 021-2398720, goldie.ie
Chef Aishling Moore’s marvellous seafood-focused restaurant sets a new standard for “catch of the day”. The menu shifts daily and sometimes mid-service, depending on what sustainable fish lands in the kitchen. Paired with local Cork ingredients, it could be served as irresistible Taiwanese fried fish nuggets, silky pâté or perfectly pan-fried whole with melting cafe de Paris butter. This clever, creative cooking makes it tempting to lick your plate clean. Wines served by the glass, pichet or bottle give plenty of options. AD
Kai
22 Sea Road, Galway, Co Galway; 091-526003, kairestaurant.ie
Chef Jess Murphy has long been a high-profile advocate for Irish produce and sustainable cooking. This autumn sees the publication of her latest cookbook, which showcases 100 of Kai’s best-loved recipes. Always creative, dishes such as Cloud Picker pork chop, John Dory with mussels and Madras crazy water, or the perennially popular lunchtime Kai fish fingers with savage cabbage slaw, keep customers coming back for more. JC
Kicky’s
Unit 9 Castle House, South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2; 01-9061008, kickys.ie
Eating out should be buzzy and fun, and Kicky’s delivers in spades, from neon interiors to the charming front-of-house team, and then chef Eric Matthews’s flavourful Mediterranean-inspired menu matches the pace. Not-to-be-missed potato focaccia with whipped carbonara butter, well-sourced fish and meats cooked over fire, luscious pastas and playful desserts are all lapped up along with imaginative cocktails and a versatile wine list. Lunch or dinner, it’s a rollicking good time. AD
O’Mahony’s
Main Street, Watergrasshill, Co Cork; 086-8316879, omahonysofwatergrasshill.com
There’s a lot of history baked into the walls of O’Mahony’s. In operation for more than 200 years, this former traditional village pub has been reimagined as a modern Irish restaurant by Máire O’Mahony and Victor Murphy. Enjoy good value comfort dishes at lunchtime, or share small plates a la carte, paired with a low-intervention, small producer wine list, craft beers and creative cocktails. Look out for upcoming pop-ups and Sunday Neapolitan pizzas. JC
Saint Francis Provisions
Short Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork; saintfrancisprovisions.squarespace.com
This place is a joy. Chef Rebeca Recarey Sanchez, originally from Spain, brings an authentic Mediterranean influence and combines it with superb ingredients from the rich Cork pantry that surrounds her. There’s excellent fish, of course (you’re in Kinsale), but don’t skip on the vegetables. She does magic things including smoked potatoes, XO tempura broccoli and kohlrabi carpaccio with Bottarga. A dynamic, naturally focused wine list suits this relaxed restaurant. AD
Vada
30 Brunswick Street North, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7; hellovada.com
Fermentation jars, blueberry hot sauce, chicken karaage, Andarl pork with mole verde – Vada doesn’t waste a scrap, and it shows in the cooking. Sarah Boland and head chef Hannah O’Donnell run the kitchen with a Ballymaloe-meets-Kai ethos: stocks made from trims, oils and vinegars from vegetable scraps, apple cores turned into kombucha. Small plates lead – turbot crudo, stracciatella, with halibut pilaf and Andarl pork for mains, and plum tarte Tatin for dessert. CH Read our review here.
Casual
Blackrock Cottage
Salthill Promenade, Galway, Co Galway; 091-399280, blackrockcottage.ie
Regardless of whether it’s sunny, windy or raining, or possibly even all three at once, a stop at Blackrock Cottage is a must when in Salthill. Open for daytime breakfast and lunch and weekend dinners, chef Michael McManus’s goal is to create memories. Try his elevated classics such salmon with brown bread or seafood chowder, or go for one his Asian-inspired hits. The new covered and heated outdoor area is a welcome addition for walkers and pet-owners. JC
Ichigo Ichie Bistro
5 Sheares Street, Cork, Co Cork; 021-4279997, ichigoichie.ie
Takashi Miyazaki’s casual Japanese restaurant puts a strong focus on sustainable ingredients, but always in a fun and relaxed manner. It’s rare that a chef surrenders a Michelin star, but making that decision has allowed Ichigo Ichie to become a Cork nexus for interesting and tasty food, served with a choice range of natural wines. Star billing goes to the handmade buckwheat noodles, served hot and cold in various dishes. JC
Izz Cafe
14 George’s Quay, Cork, Co Cork; 021-2290689, izz.ie
Izz is more than a cafe – it’s a vibrant meeting of Cork and Palestinian culture, bursting with hospitality and bold, aromatic dishes. Highlights from chef Eman Aburabi include the popular taster plate of hummus, babaganoush, zingy tabbouleh and warm manaeesh. Don’t skip the Musakhan – roast chicken with sumac and spices baked on bread. AD
King Skewer
8 Cathedral Street, Dublin 1; 01-4458207 kingskewer.ie
A Chinese grill house where the skewers are the big draw: cumin-dusted duck tongue, mahogany-skinned quail, and spicy lamb with a smoking fat cap. The sides are no afterthought either: crisp chilli-oil potatoes, bubbling corn-and-cheese, and oyster grilled with garlic and glass noodles. Pair it all with beer, which comes by the pint or in giant self-pour pots. Read our review here. CH
Matsu
St Kevin’s GAA Club, Staplestown, Naas, Co Kildare; 083-0901230, instagram.com/matsu_kildare
Tokyo native and classically trained sushi chef Ken Komatsu is the man behind Matsui Ramen, a real-deal weekend ramen joint tucked away in a Kildare GAA club. Try prawn tuskemen, chilled thick noodles with a rich and savoury prawn broth, or warm up with tantanmen, a creamy and sesame child broth with thin noodles and minced pork. And if you fancy getting your hands on authentic Japanese knives to up your kitchen game, Ken is the man to ask. JC
Scéal
The Bracken, Marina Village, Greystones, Co Wicklow; scealbakery.com
Scéal Cafe’s bright and modern interior with windows overlooking the marina is the perfect backdrop for its laser sharp and utterly moreish viennoiserie and speciality coffee. Shelves are stacked with sourdough loaves, which cut open to reveal glossy bubbly interiors. Owners Charlotte Leonard-Kane and Shane Palmer have generated a cult following from their time in Dublin 8, many of whom gladly make the pilgrimage to Greystones for their flaky pastry fix. This autumn has seen the publication of the Scéal cookbook, showing exactly how it’s all done. JC
Sister 7 at Fidelity Bar & Studio
79 Queen Street, Smithfield, Dublin 7; fidelitybar.ie
This slick diningroom is a clever mash-up of the Big Fan crew, Hidden Agenda promoters and Whiplash beer – so you’re set for great food, tunes and drinks. The food does tend to steal the show, though; chefs Alex Zhang and Chun Li bring traditional Chinese cooking techniques together with top Irish produce for lip-smacking, umami-rich dumplings, bao and Xiao Chi. Comfy seats are a big bonus, that is, until the music pulls you up for a dance. Read our review here. AD
Tang
9a Abbey St Lower, Dublin 1 (and other locations); 01-8733672, tang.ie
Tang now has four Dublin locations, including its newest on Windmill Lane. Its familiar Middle Eastern-inspired salads and wraps remain wildly popular, alongside queue-worthy brunch dishes, elevated since chef Keith Coleman (ex-Fumbally and Fia) became executive chef. It serves dinner on Thursday and Friday, moving from its Cumberland Place terrace to indoors on Abbey Street for the winter. Expect more vibrant, colourful plates of Middle Eastern favourites and a lively drinks list. Read our review here. AD
Tango Street Food
Muckross Road, Dromhale, Killarney, Co Kerry; 085-2322233, tangostreetfood.com
Long a tourist town, Killarney has steadily established a quality food and drink scene in recent years. Nowhere embodies this more than Tango, a combination Argentinian parrilla and Neapolitan pizza restaurant from Facundo Rodulfo and Pamela Neumann. A lover of fire and grill, Rodulfo marries his heritage and experiences in beef empanadas, choripan sausage sandwiches and oozing grilled provolone cheese. Look out for Tango’s first cookbook or attend a masterclass to learn the tricks for yourself. JC
The Coach House
Main Street, Roundwood, Co Wicklow; 01-2336010, thecoachhouse.ie
Breakfast is now served in this restored 1820s coach house, where three fires burn all day. Lunch and dinner bring confit duck croquettes with butternut squash purée, croque monsieur with house-baked ham and Comté, and Kilmore Quay monkfish with charred baby gem. Next door, you’ll find Roundwood Stores bakery offers more casual options. CH
The Dough Bros
Cathedral Buildings, 1 Middle Street, Galway, Co Galway; thedoughbros.ie
Our pizza obsession owes much to brothers Ronan and Eugene Greaney, whose Dough Bros business continues to thrive. This year they opened Lil’ Bros slice shop on Eyre Square, but Middle Street remains the best place to experience their craft – quirky, creative Neapolitan pizzas showcasing top Irish artisan ingredients, cooked fresh and fast in a wood-fired oven. They also offer a stellar list of soft drinks, local beers and quaffable wines. AD
Indie
Aniar
53 Lower Dominick Street, Galway, Co Galway; 091-535947, aniarrestaurant.ie
You need to prepare yourself for dinner at Aniar where the 2.0 tasting menu delivers an astounding 24 courses, each a showcase for the west of Ireland. Kelp and sea beet rub shoulders with lamb and beef in a menu that covers both sea and land. JP McMahon is not known for sitting still and, in the 14 years that Aniar has been open, he has constantly sought to push boundaries and build an Irish food heritage. JC
Cafe Rua
New Antrim Street, Castlebar, Co Mayo; 094-9023376, caferua.com
It has been 30 years since the mother and daughter duo of Ann and Colleen McMahon opened Cafe Rua, followed by a deli-shop in 2008. Now run by Colleen and her brother Aran, the two locations are truly part of the town’s heartbeat. Open for lunch and breakfast, try dishes such as crispy fried egg and pepperonata on Cornrue sourdough toast, or pan-fried hake with hollandaise, Bombay spiced potato and greens. Or simply stop for coffee and some excellent cake. JC
Campagne
Arches Gashouse Lane, Kilkenny; 056-7772858 campagne.ie
When we discuss industry stalwarts, some names just keep coming up. Garrett Byrne’s Campagne is one such spot, with smart, crisp classic cooking that just consistently delivers. Always seasonal, the menu currently features royale of wood pigeon with figs and girolles and slow-cooked duck with aubergines and ceps. With partner Bríd Hannon running the restaurant and superb value set menus, Campagne is always the smart money. JC
China Sichuan
The Forum, Ballymoss Road, Sandyford Business Park, Dublin 18; 01-2935100, china-sichuan.ie
A 45-year-old multigenerational restaurant, China Sichuan is known for its upmarket Sichuan dishes which incorporate quality Irish ingredients. Try fried soft shell crab with toasted almonds and chilli, Irish lobster with ginger and scallion sauce or tea smoked duck. This year saw the opening of China Sichuan To Go, a casual all-day spot for quick bites or takeaway, but with all of the flair of the original. JC
[ China Sichuan to Go takeaway review: The aromatic duck alone is worth the tripOpens in new window ]
Foodgame
10 South Lotts Road, Dublin 4; 01-2815002, foodgame.ie
Every neighbourhood needs a good cafe, one that makes a great cup of coffee and always welcomes you with a smile. Celebrating 15 years in business this year, Foodgame surely meets these requirements. The menu is short but it’s all about the details and the execution. Simple soft scrambled Tolka eggs come with perfectly crisp O’Neill’s bacon, coffee is from Ariosa and the BLT, made with Annie’s Farm organic leaves, proudly declares itself the best in town. JC
L’Atitude 51
1 Union Quay, Cork; 021-2390219, latitude51.ie
This Cork favourite still feels fresh after over a decade in business thanks to its ever-evolving wine list and fun approach to dining. The wine list has more than 400 bottles and 30 by the glass in varying sizes. The menu matches adventurous sipping with small plates combining Irish ingredients and European influences. Think spiced beef tongue with sauerkraut and salsa verde, colcannon croquettes and the irresistible winter return of whole baked Mont d’Or. AD
MacNean House
Blacklion, Co Cavan; 071-9853022, nevenmaguire.com
Neven and Amelda Maguire are approaching a quarter of a century in business at MacNean House, and its reputation for warm hospitality and generous cooking is as strong as ever. The nine-course Prestige tasting menu offers options for several courses, thus giving diners the best of all worlds. Having trained under the genial Neven himself, chef Carmel McGirr delivers hearty and tasty food that everyone will enjoy. JC
[ Neven Maguire on recipes, restaurants and working out to dance records at 6amOpens in new window ]
Monty’s of Kathmandu
28 Eustace Street, Dublin 2; 01-6704911, montys.ie
Monty’s of Kathmandu has been flying the Nepalese flag in Temple Bar since 1997 – long before the area became a tourist trap. Shiva and Lina Gautam’s restaurant remains proudly, unmistakably Nepalese; momos steamed to order, smoky breads and kebabs from the charcoal tandoor, goat curry and Nepalese biryani alongside Lina’s sag chat. There’s a two-course midweek menu from €32, but the a la carte is where the cooking shows its depth. An award-winning 85-page wine list starts at €28 and includes icons such as Domaine Romanée-Conti and Château Pétrus. Read our review here. CH
Pickle
43 Camden Street Lower, Dublin 2; 01-5557755, picklerestaurant.com
Chef Sunil Ghai directly imports rare Indian spices to create a menu that combines north Indian cuisine with the best Irish produce. The result is an invigorating menu full of dishes you’ll want to try – street food snacks, aromatic curries, birianis and the unmissable Goat Keema Pao. The chef’s tasting menu offers a wonderful insight into the inventive cooking here. Portions are generous, service lovely and the food delicious; no wonder it is always busy. AD
Station House Hotel
Kilmessan, Co Meath; 046-9025239, stationhousehotel.ie
The Slattery family have been in charge at the Station House since 1984 and under their stewardship this former railway station has been turned into a cozy and bright boutique hotel. The Signal Restaurant celebrates local produce from the surrounding Boyne Valley and all around Ireland. Look out for the regular Boyne Valley dinners in their Signal restaurant which are truly generous, especially when paired with the hotel’s unique wine list. JC
The Pig’s Ear
4 Nassau Street, Dublin 2; 01-6703865 thepigsear.ie
The Pig’s Ear went backwards to move forward – who knew it would work so well? After their brief Lotus Eaters phase, Andrea Hussey and Stephen McAllister returned with a new incarnation, diving deep into Dublin’s past. The result is original, personality-led cooking – famine soup with bone marrow toast, Dublin coddle, sharing mulligatawny chicken pie. The generous wine list is put together by people who love wine, boasting 22 by the glass. Alternatively, you could opt for a pint of the black stuff and lean into the auld Dublin vibe. Read our review here. AD
The Tannery Restaurant
10 Quay Street, Dungarvan, Co Waterford; 058-45420, tannery.ie
Paul and Máire Flynn have been flying the flag for great Irish food and hospitality at the Tannery for more than 20 years. These days they are joined by chef Damien Derwin (ex-Pig’s Ear), who deftly carries on Flynn’s love for robust flavours, classic dishes and shining the light on local suppliers. It’s a popular spot for celebrations and get-togethers because it’s one of those restaurants you know will deliver. Longevity with consistent quality like this should be applauded. AD
Thyme
Custume Place, Athlone, Co Westmeath; 090-6478850, thymerestaurant.ie
It’s the mark of a good restaurant that you are drawn there time and time again. Such is the case at John and Tara Coffey’s welcoming spot in the heart of Athlone. Every dish is meticulously presented and worthy of its own Instagram post but, most importantly, also tastes delicious. Try ballotine of quail, brill with dillisk beurre blanc or a slice of Young Buck served with crackers made using spent grain from the brewery next door. JC
Wine & Brine
59 Main Street, Moira, Co Armagh BT67 0LQ; +44 28 92610500, wineandbrine.co.uk
Chef Chris McGowan doesn’t simply give diners a few dishes from which to choose. Every menu is packed with options, leaving you to wonder how the kitchen manages to do it all. There are always lighter options such as shellfish ravioli with Kilkeel crab or skate wing on the bone, but Wine & Brine really excels in game season, with roast mallard, wood pigeon and partridge all taking their turn to shine. JC
Catch the buzz
Bar Pez
Unit 3, College Court, Kevin Street Lower, Portobello, Dublin 8; 01-5670577, barpez.ie
This stylish, wood-panelled room is owners Jumoke Akintola and Peter Hogan’s homage to the Spanish tapas bars they love, and it shows in the menu full of top-notch Irish ingredients cooked with plenty of Spanish inspiration. Choose from the chalkboard – oozy croquetas, Connemara oysters, crab sandwich, maybe a stew. Wash it down with something from their 300-plus eclectic wine list, offering 20 or so by the glass, including sparkling, orange wines and sherries. AD
China Tang
5A Monkstown Crescent, Monkstown, Co Dublin; 01-4853798, chinatang.ie
There’s a welcome old-school glamour at China Tang and a menu to match. Cantonese dim sum, roasted meats, Sichuan and Hunan dishes are delivered with flair, but the show stopper is the signature roasted Peking duck carved tableside (must be pre-ordered). Bring a gang to work through the extensive menu for a great time. Read our review here. AD
Daróg
56 Lower Dominick Street, Galway, Co Galway; 091-565813, darogwinebar.com
This intimate wine bar may be small, but it packs bold flavours and an exceptional wine list curated by co-owner Zsolt Lukács, crowned Michelin sommelier of the year in 2025. Chef Stiofán Feeney’s seasonal small plates, such as polenta cakes with Comté and Dexter beef tartare, build up to a substantial dinner, perfect for pairing with the 40 by-the-glass wine options. Read our review here. AD
Kaldero
Unit 4B, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, King Street South, Dublin 2; 01-4782152, kaldero.ie
After a bumpy start in 2024 with a mixed Asian menu, Kaldero smartly relaunched this summer with Bahay – the Irish Filipino concept from chef Richie Castillo and food creative Alex O’Neill. Now it’s all about the dishes for which Castillo is celebrated: golden lumpia spring rolls, rich kare kare braised oxtail with peanut sauce, and inihaw na manok, barbecue chicken skewers glazed with banana ketchup. It’s a wonderful showcase of his Irish and Filipino heritage on a plate. AD
La Gordita
6 Montague Street, Dublin 2; 01-5313303, lagordita.ie
Walking past La Gordita takes you immediately to the streets of Spain. The classic wooden and glass exterior beckons you in for a glass of good Spanish red or a nutty amontillado sherry. With a long bar running down the middle and tables at either end, it’s always buzzing. Chef María Luisa Moraleda knows how to deliver a menu of signature dishes such as anchovies with blue cheese butter and ever-changing seasonal specials. JC
Lena
1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8; 01-4163655, lena.ie
Lena starts with a sage leaf and an anchovy – fried to a crackle – two bites that set the bar unreachably high. Liz Matthews, Simon Barrett and Paul McNamara – the team behind Etto and Uno Mas – seem incapable of putting a foot wrong. Italian-inspired plates follow: wild sea bass crudo with blood orange and rosemary, pici cacio e pepe that leaves you licking the plate, and halibut with vermouth sauce. No wonder it’s the toughest booking in Dublin right now. It’s the perfect restaurant. Read our review here. CH
Lir
The Coleraine Marina, Coleraine, Co Derry, BT52 1EY; +44 78 28127739, lirseafood.com
The Great British Menu has been a fantastic showcase for Northern chefs in recent years, most particularly for self-taught Steafan McCarry. Years of innovation for this devotee of fin-to-tail cooking culminated in the overall region win this year. With wife Rebekah, he has added a new events space to Lir, and is looking forward to a winter of special collaboration evenings with other superb local talent. JC
Mae
53 Shelbourne Road, Dublin 4; 01-2313903, maerestaurant.ie
Chef Gráinne O’Keefe may have published a book about cooking for one this year, but you’re advised to bring friends or family when dining at Mae. There’s just too much to enjoy solo. The set menu features dishes such as smoked Hegarty’s cheddar agnolotti, brown butter fillet of hake and the decadent tarte Tatin. Diners can choose from a selection of individual handcrafted knives, and the wine pairings from downstairs The French Paradox are unique. JC
Reggie’s Pizzeria
221/223 Rathmines Road Lower, Rathmines, Dublin 6; reggies.ie
The hype hasn’t faded – nor should it. Reggie White’s low-waste pizzeria in a reworked redbrick in Rathmines is one of the most exciting rooms in Dublin, humming with families, students and couples sharing bottles of wine over 48-hour fermented wild-farmed sourdough pizzas. The whey-braised leek with Cashel Blue and honey and the Andarl Farm sausage are standouts, and nothing costs more than €18.50. Soon, there’ll be pasta too – because why stop at great pizza? Read our review here. CH
The Morrison Room
Carton House, Maynooth, Co Kildare; 01-5052000, cartonhouse.com
The grandeur of this historic 19th-century room is the perfect canvas for chef Adam Nevin’s dynamic cooking. After winning a Michelin star last year, the food featuring exquisite ingredients continues to wow. Go all out with the tasting menu (€150) or visit on Sunday for a pared-back four-course (€95). A champagne trolley and classic wine list with big hitters are fitting partners. AD
The Pullman
Glenlo Abbey Hotel, Galway, Co Galway; 091-519600, glenloabbeyhotel.ie
Leona and Linda are the charming ex-Orient Express carriages that are home to the Pullman restaurant. Reopening this year after an extensive renovation, the two ladies are smarter than ever. Working from an adjacent purpose-built kitchen, chef Angelo Vagiotis, pastry chef Linda Sergidou and the rest of the Pullman team are driving a refined tasting menu experience worthy of the setting, while restaurant manager Ian McDonnell walks the aisles with wines to match. JC
Variety Jones
79 Thomas Street, Dublin 8; 01-5671164, varietyjones.ie
Variety Jones may have moved premises and settled into a gorgeous new home on the corner of Thomas Street, but some things will never change. There will always be the signature waffles and pasta on the tasting menu. The sharing main will always be a joyously riotous affair. The wine list is always good. Open-fire cooking is used as much as possible and, in the words of owner Keelan Higgs, “you’re in for a good time, not a long time”. JC
Special occasion
Ananda
Dundrum Town Centre, Dundrum, Dublin 14; 01-2960099, anandarestaurant.ie
Since opening in 2008, Ananda has delivered exceptional Indian food in spectacular surroundings. The elegant and spacious diningroom is a perfect match for the vibrant dishes, be it Goan-style halibut with prawns and lemon leaf bouillabaisse or lentil dumplings with masala Glenilen yoghurt and aged tamarind preserve. Plump for the tasting menu to enjoy the full experience, paired with well-chosen wines. JC
Artis
29-31 Craft Village, Derry BT47 6BD; +44 28 7126 1212, artisatcraftvillagederry.com
A quiet haven for local craftspeople is an appropriate backdrop for Phelim O’Hagan’s restaurant and its keen focus on Northern ingredients. Opened in 2021, a listing in the Michelin guide soon followed, secured via dishes such as Donegal Dexter beef rump with shortrib croquette and Guinness rarebit, butter poached cod with saffron potato and Gubbeen chorizo. JC
Bastible
11 South Circular Road, Dublin 8; 01-4737409, bastible.com
With muted green walls, blonde wood furniture and plenty of space, the diningroom at Bastible manages to stay on just the right side of austere. The open kitchen takes up the far end, with most diners able to get a good view of the chefs at work. The tasting menu echoes the room, with pared-back dishes that pack quite a punch. Understated, yes, but superbly executed and matched with a very good wine list. Read our review here. JC
Chapter One
18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1; 01-8732266, chapteronerestaurant.com
There are no hushed tones in this two-Michelin-starred diningroom, just warm welcomes and lively service. Beautifully executed dishes, using luxe ingredients, are often swoon-worthy, particularly when it comes to the pastry. The whole thing feels like a seasoned orchestra playing; everything in the room and on the plate is in harmony. Sure, it’s not cheap, but with nothing else like it, it feels worth the spend. AD
Dax
23 Pembroke Street Upper, Dublin 2; 01-6761494, dax.ie
After 20 years, Dax still delivers Dublin’s most refined take on classical French cooking. Graham Neville’s plates – courgette flowers stuffed with Dublin Bay prawns, John Dory, Tipperary beef, and mille-feuille of Irish rhubarb – are elegant and precise. Owner Olivier Meisonnave runs the floor with aplomb and has built one of the country’s great wine lists, stretching from biodynamic bottles to Grand Cru heavyweights. Lunch, from Wednesday to Saturday, is one of the city’s great escapes; dinner carries the same quiet assurance. CH
Homestead Cottage
Luogh North, Doolin, Co Clare; 065-6794133, homesteadcottage.com
Inside this picture-perfect thatched cottage you’ll find terrific Michelin-starred modern Irish cuisine by chef Robbie McCauley. Seasonal game, Aran turbot, Galway chanterelles and produce from the kitchen garden are crafted into pretty plates of food with real substance. Flagstone floors and open fires set the scene for cosy yet refined dining, matched by a drinks list featuring more than 450 wines. AD
Liath
Blackrock Market, Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 085-1278680, liathrestaurant.com
Tucked away in one of the darker corners of Blackrock market, the entrance to Liath is brightly illuminated, drawing diners into the comfort inside. Although this is a small restaurant, it is big in attitude and character, with a sublime tasting menu experience. The restaurant’s social media doesn’t profile current dishes, meaning that diners will truly be experiencing dishes for the first time. JC
Library Street
101 Setanta Place, Dublin 2; 01-6170999, librarystreet.ie
A top spot for modern Irish fine dining with no fuss. Chef-proprietor Kevin Burke and team use lots of local, seasonal ingredients and take a contemporary approach to classic cooking, with delicious results such as turbot head with moreish miso cooked over fire or addictive horseradish choux buns. A thoughtful wine list pairs well with the innovative menu. After four years of refinement, it just keeps getting better and is now happily open on Monday. AD
Lignum
Ballaun, Loughrea, Co Galway; 087-3300559, lignum.ie
It’s often said that achieving a Michelin star allows a chef to relax. Who knows if it’s true, but Danny Africano’s sleek Lignum is certainly flying high since winning one earlier this year. Cooking over open flame is at the soul of this kitchen, which produces dishes so beautiful you may feel guilty about eating them. The Saturday and Sunday five-course lunch menus offer excellent value. Read our review here. JC
Ox
1 Oxford Street, Belfast BT1 3LA; +44-28-90314121, oxbelfast.com
It’s always a pleasure to dine at Ox, whether it’s during the daytime with light flooding in through the large windows, or in the evening when a cosier atmosphere settles over the room. Over the years, Stephen Toman and Alain Kerloc’h have never wavered in their dedication to quality. Enjoy classic gougères made with Coolattin cheddar, Thornill duck with hispi and elderberries, and elevated vanilla rice pudding, served with Alain’s wonderful wine pairings. Read our review here. JC
The Glass Curtain
Thompson House, MacCurtain Street, Cork, Co Cork; 021-4518659, theglasscurtain.ie
The Glass Curtain continues to evolve, having built a solid reputation for large dishes, ideal for sharing around the table, all cooked over open fire. Frequent collaborations bring new ideas to the kitchen, with seasonal and foraged produce at the centre. Brian Murray’s list of suppliers reads like a who’s who of Cork food royalty, and the sleek modern interior is a fun place to be with friends and family. JC
Restaurant Chestnut
The Chestnut Tree, Staball Hill, Ballydehob, Co Cork; 028-25766, restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie
Rob Krawczyk and Elaine Fleming’s Michelin one-star restaurant is best known for its €120 tasting menu, but the €75 four-course at 5.45pm shows the same precision in a shorter form. It opens with brown soda bread and house-smoked cultured butter before moving on to dishes that show Krawczyk at his sharpest – native crab with smoked mackerel royale, egg baked in brown butter with trout roe, a loose-crumbed fish cake folded with herbs, and vinegared strawberries and cultured cream. CH
The Muddlers Club
Unit 1, Warehouse Lane, Belfast BT1 2DX; +44-28-90313199, themuddlersclubbelfast.com
Named after the secret Masonic society that met there more than 200 years ago, Gareth McCaughey’s restaurant is certainly no secret to Belfast diners. His philosophy is to keep things simple while using the very best of ingredients. The menu changes regularly, but look out for dishes such as Wicklow venison with beetroot and plum, Mourne lamb with aubergine and miso, or the cherry and tonka bean tart. In a welcome move, there are more than 75 wines available by the glass. JC
Good value
51 Cornmarket
51 Cornmarket Street, Coal Quay, Cork, Co Cork; 083-0102321, 51cornmarket.ie
This cosy city-centre spot has evolved beautifully over five years from brunch cafe to impressive modern Irish bistro. Seasonal, local produce from top Cork suppliers shines in confidently French-inspired cooking. Everything seems to come with an irresistible sauce, dip or side, such as cheesy cheese croquettes with date ketchup, or Anne’s brown bread with burnt onion butter. Bonus points for the natural-wine-focused wine list always having a big by-the-glass selection. AD
Andhra Bhavan
85 Marlborough Place, Dublin 1; 01 -551 8742, andhrabhavan.ie
The sizzle of dosa and steam of chai set the tone – southern Indian cooking that starts at breakfast and doesn’t stop. Mornings bring dosa, idli, vada and uttappam; by lunch it’s biryanis, thali platters, Gutti Vankaya curry, mutton fry and chicken Chettinadu. The Marlborough Street original now has siblings on Abbey Street and in Belfast, all serving the same deep menu built for repeat visits. Thalis stand out, with Gobi 65, gongura prawns and lamb Chettinadu showing their range. Read our review here. CH
Bramley
10 Main Street, Abbeyleix, Co Laois; 057-8757749, bramleyabbeyleix.com
On the main street of this planned estate town, Bramley is an elegant and spacious venue serving casual lunch and upscale dinners. Chef Sam Moody brings extensive fine-dining experience to dishes such as a crispy chicken schnitzel Caesar salad, honey-glazed quail and wild Irish venison with spiced date puree. The supper menu available from Wednesday to Friday offers exceptional value, especially when matched with a glass from the well chosen wine list. JC
Craft
208 Harold’s Cross Road, Dublin 6W; 01-4978632, craftrestaurant.ie
Philip Yueng’s refined neighbourhood restaurant Craft is approaching its 10th birthday and the consensus is that it has never been better. His style of modern Irish food with subtle Asian influences has proven consistently popular with locals. The three-course lunch menu for €25 or evening time chef’s menu for €39 is certainly excellent value, but the a la carte is equally worth a browse. With the winter months drawing in, the return of the Sunday roast is very welcome. JC
Dining Room
Bridge Street, Gorteendrunagh, Castlebar, Co Mayo; 094-9021861, diningroomcastlebar.com
Few restaurants cook at this level for the money. Kevin and Shirley Stirzake’s €44 and €63 menus get you three courses and a sorbet, with dishes such as Falls goat’s cheese, Keem Bay smoked salmon, West Coast crab, scallops with pork belly, Hereford sirloin and rack of lamb. CH
Lottie’s
7-9 Rathgar Road, Rathmines, Dublin 6; 01-5585969, lotties.ie
Raffaele Rasso now heads the kitchen at this Michelin Bib Gourmand neighbourhood restaurant, where the early evening menu (€35/€40, Wed-Fri, 5pm-6.30pm) is a bargain. Expect Silverhill duck leg croquettes with fried artichoke, broad bean hummus, chicken thigh with smoked cannellini beans, seabass with kombu gnocchi, and tonka bean panna cotta to finish. CH
Notions at Two Pups
74 Francis Street, Dublin 8; notionsdublin.com
Usually, we’d slag someone off for having notions in Ireland, but not here. Instead, we’re delighted to see Two Pups cafe on Francis Street transformed after hours into a bistro-style evening restaurant. The casual sharing menu features star suppliers and current Irish menu favourites such as hispi cabbage, oysters, padron peppers and cod roe. Breads come from their own Bold Boy Bakery, and there’s a playful natural wine list. Read our review here. AD
Oliveto
Haddington House Hotel, 9-12 Haddington Terrace, Dún Laoghaire; 01-2801810, haddingtonhouse.ie
Nabbing a window seat here is always a treat, with harbour views over Dún Laoghaire. It’s a hotel restaurant, but it feels more like a buzzy local bistro, with an Italian-leaning menu of Lambay crab arancini, scallops in chicken butter sauce, wood-fired meats, seafood, and rich pastas (the pizzas quietly bowed out this summer). The wine list leans Italian too, with plenty offered by the glass or carafe. AD
Rúibín
1-2 Dock Road, Galway, Co Galway; 091-563830, ruibin.ie
Rúibín is that rare kind of place where you feel at home from the minute you walk in the door. Maybe it’s the beautiful stone building with even more exposed stone inside. Or maybe it’s the excellent cocktails. Open for lunch, dinner and bar food, Rúibín’s style is contemporary and delicious. Try trout crudo with buttermilk, dill and apple, muscovado-brined pork chop or monkfish fillet with sobrassada butter. JC
Square
6 Market Square, Dundalk, Co Louth; 042-9337969, squarerestaurant.ie
It’s all go at Conor Halpenny’s Square restaurant, which recently nearly doubled in capacity, while its partnership with local An Táin Arts Centre offers good value pre-theatre dining menus. A former Euro-Toque young chef of the year and current Georgina Campbell chef of the year, Halpenny blends classic techniques with modern trends to create dishes such as Square KFC or monkfish with pickled mussels. JC
Union
11 The Mall, Waterford, Co Waterford; 051-574519, unionbar.ie
The combination of outstanding modern Irish dishes from chef Stephen McArdle and exceptional wines from his partner and sommelier Morgan VanderKamer is what makes Union wine bar and restaurant so special. Occupying a former pub, the front is cozy and perfect for a glass of wine while the dining room opens up to the rear. With more than 35 wines available by the glass and a tasty bar bites menu, the Déise is calling. JC
Volpe Nera
22 Newtown Park, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 01-2788516, volpenera.ie
Blackrock residents are spoilt to have this as their local spot. Chef Barry Sun’s modern European cooking with Asian influences (there is usually a delicious dumpling on offer) shows up as colourful plates of food full of texture. There’s great value in their €38 neighbourhood four-course menu on Wednesdays and Thursdays and three-course lunch menu on Fridays and Saturdays. Seasonal aperitifs and an interesting wine list make it all the more special. AD
