Malaga is, for outsiders, something of a hidden gem on the Costa del Sol. Irish holidaymakers have been flying to the area for years, to the resorts of Torremolinos, Fuengirola, Estepona and Benalmadena, but many have seen little more of the city than its airport. Business deals may be done on the golf courses of Puerto Banus or around the marina in Marbella but the city of Malaga itself has plenty to offer business travellers in the way of art, culture, wine and food. And autumn is the perfect time to experience it.
Malaga is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, one of the 20th century’s greatest artists, and where he spent the first 10 years of his life. The Picasso Museum holds a large body of his work, through which you can follow the development of his ideas, from boyhood sketches to the creation of Cubism – via paintings of some of his many female companions. The artist left the city as a child but Andalusian culture remained close to his heart throughout his life and many elements of Spain’s south, such as the bullfight or the Mediterranean, can be seen in his work.
To learn more you can visit the Casa Natal, the Picasso Birthplace Museum, in the artist’s early childhood home. Picasso’s father rented the first floor of the house from 1880 to 1883; it was turned into a museum in 1998 and houses much of the artist’s early work as well as family mementos.
Most of Malaga’s museums and galleries are within walking distance in its compact city centre. Museo Carmen Thyssen holds four floors of exceptional Andalusian art – many of the canvasses are bursting with Spanish vibrancy and humour. With an excellent permanent collection and many temporary exhibits, this is an easy place to while away several hours.
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Choose early morning or late evening to visit the Roman Theatre and the Alcazaba, one of the most emblematic Islamic heritage sites in Malaga. Stroll among the gardens and fountains of this ‘Little Alhambra’ and take in the panoramic views of this port city from the top.
Take a boat along the coast for an alternative view. The once run-down marina has been given a glow-up and it’s a lovely stroll along the restaurant-lined harbour to the Pompidou Centre, a multicoloured cube structure which houses another fascinating gallery.
Take to the high street on the canvas-covered Calle Molina Lario. Shoppers can peruse stores such as Massimo Dutti and Bimba y Lola. Stop for a jamón ibérico tapa or an ice cream from one of the street’s many vendors.
If you’re a regular to Spanish cities, you’ll know there is nothing more social than taking a stroll around a covered market. Be prepared for sensory overload at the Mercado de Atarazanas, with a multitude of colours, aromas, sounds and tastes.
This market, too, traces its roots to Spain’s Islamic period; in the 14th century it was the site of one of the ruling Nasrid dynasty’s principal shipyards. While only the arch of the original facade remains, it has been declared a monument of profound historical significance. Once you have meandered around the many stalls, stop at the bar for an espresso or cold cerveza or grab a seat outdoors for paella, gambas or patatas bravas.
Stay at the Hotel Molina Lario, which is near the harbour, a couple of minutes’ walk from the main shopping street. A rooftop pool is essential when temperatures soar in the city and The Top bar has one. It’s a place to kick back, sip a cocktail and take in the incredible views of the harbour in front and the cathedral behind.
Eat at the hotel’s sensational Matiz restaurant and let the chef show off his culinary prowess with a tasting menu and wine pairing that showcase some of the region’s finest ingredients. Named one of the top 100 restaurants in Spain, this is definitely one to tick off your dining-out to-do list.
The Molina Lario’s bedrooms are bright, airy and elegant and many allow you to take in the atmosphere from the street below with floor-to-ceiling balcony windows. hotelmolinalario.com
Other must-sees include El Pimpi, one of Malaga’s best-known establishments. It’s a bodega that boasts a remarkable collection of Spanish wines but it also has a menu of tasty local cuisine. elpimpi.com/
Gusto, lastly, serves up delicious pasta and pizza and has a lovely outdoor seating area as well as a decent selection of wines and cocktails.
Both Aer Lingus and Ryanair fly to Malaga daily.
