The west of Ireland is absolutely blessed when it comes to dining. There is a slew of Michelin-starred restaurants along the way, as well as local spots serving up really good casual fare, pubs offering great bites - and pints - and buzzy, unmissable restaurants in big cities. And that’s not to mention the brilliant hotels, B&Bs and other types of accommodation that have lots of impressive options.
The Wild Atlantic Way, the scenic route that stretches 2,600km along the west of Ireland from the Inishowen Peninsula in Donegal to Kinsale in Cork, has done big business for the western counties. A recent report showed that it saw 2.3m overseas tourists visit last year, generating €2.37bn in revenue - a good chunk of which was spent on food and drink. It continued to be hugely popular with domestic tourists too, with plenty of us right here in Ireland traversing the picturesque route.
I’ve been lucky enough to spend a decent amount of time in the west and even completed the full Wild Atlantic Way with friends in my trusty Renault Clio a couple of years ago. With the beautiful hill walks, breathtaking scenery and lovely people, we had the time of our lives. More importantly, between trekking the Cliffs of Moher with a local farmer, holding a baby lamb in Kerry, and swimming in the Atlantic Ocean, we focused much of our time on eating and drinking well. The culinary excursions took up much of our planning and we based our whole itinerary on where we wanted to eat. Having eaten very well across the whole route, here are three places I’d visit again in a heartbeat.
Homestead Cottage, Doolin, Co Clare
RM Block
If there’s one restaurant I would recommend organising your entire trip along the Wild Atlantic Way around, it’s Homestead Cottage in Doolin. Located in a 200-year-old cottage that’s been lovingly restored to give a homey feel to the space, Homestead Cottage is run by married couple Robbie and Sophie McCauley. When you’re there, you feel like you’ve been welcomed into their family home, and you’ll often see their two young daughters make an appearance in the restaurant - it truly is a family affair.
Robbie McCauley has an impressive culinary CV and it’s showcased throughout the impressive tasting menu. Featuring produce that’s been sourced as locally as possible, the offering is a love letter to Clare, and Ireland itself. Since the restaurant’s opening, McCauley has connected with nearby producers to bring the best of the west to the plate, with Burren beef, coastal seafood and game shot just kilometres from the restaurant all appearing on the plate throughout the year. Some of the vegetables are even grown by his own fair hands, a feat in itself for any restaurant.
Added to the Michelin Guide in 2024, mere months after opening, Homestead Cottage is a small restaurant, adding to the intimate feel. The team is also small, so you’ll get to know them throughout the evening, with the kitchen staff delivering dishes to your table and explaining each. While some fine dining establishments trade on their formal styles of service, there’s none of that at Homestead Cottage - everything is comfortable, personal and pleasant. With the front of house team overseen by French-born Sophie McCauley, the wine service is skilful and pairs very well with the menu.
As it’s a seasonally influenced menu, you never quite know what you’re going to get from the set menu, but it’s always tasty. Between the Atlantic raging outside the windows and the beautiful space itself, a visit to Homestead Cottage is a brilliant way to break up your road trip. While it’s good at any time of year, McCauley has a great love for game, so visiting in late autumn and winter is sure to bring something special to your experience. homesteadcottagedoolin.com
The Fish Box, Dingle, Co Kerry
Dingle is a brilliant, buzzy town that’s a must visit on any trip west and for food and drink-focused travellers, there’s plenty to keep you occupied. One spot that I continuously suggest to anyone making their way to this coastal town is The Fish Box. I’m surely not the first person you’ve heard this from, based on its perpetual busy trade, but it’s worth repeating.
Owned and operated by the Flannery family, the seafood served is freshly caught on the family’s own trawler, Cú na Mara, while everything else used is sourced from local artisan producers. The result is - of course - a seafood heavy menu, but the simple is made sensational here. The batter on the fish and chips is always crispy, the chowder is consistently creamy, and the seafood spice box is the stuff of legend. Daily specials pop up to keep things interesting, but there is some really good cooking on offer.
They don’t take reservations and it’s always busy, but I urge you to wait it out - everything moves fairly quickly, and you’ll find that The Fish Box is worth the wait. There’s a great takeaway menu on offer too with compostable packaging that makes it an ideal spot to pop into if you’re short on time. Taking your fish and chips or tempura prawns to enjoy beside the water is a lovely treat when the weather plays ball. There’s a Fish Box food truck that you’ll find popping up around the town too, so keep your eyes peeled. It wouldn’t really be a trip to the west without fish and chips, in my humble opinion, and this is one of my favourite stops - a meal here, followed by a pint in Dick Mack’s, is a great way to spend a day. thefishboxdingle.com
Daróg Wine Bar, Galway
With good vibes, great wines and tasty small plates, Daróg is a total powerhouse in Galway’s Westend neighbourhood. From Zsolt and Edel Lukács, a sommelier and designer respectively, Daróg is fun and without formality, featuring both brilliant wine and service.
The menu from chef Stiofán Feeney is creative and seriously impressive, especially since it comes from such a small space. I’ve spent evenings here with just a glass of wine recommended by Zsolt - the best way to try what’s on offer - and a few snacks at the bar, but the best way to go about it would be to bring in a group and try the whole menu, a sort of divide and conquer approach to a menu worth sharing.
Made up of Irish suppliers whose names you’ll find listed on the website, there’s extreme care taken with the menu and it showcases the best of what’s on offer throughout the seasons.
It’s a busy spot so try to nab yourself a space whenever you see it’s available, but the best thing about Daróg is that it’s the kind of place you’ll comfortable whether you’re a solo diner with a book at the bar or part of a group taking over the bigger table towards the back of the restaurant. Galway is always worth a stop when traversing the Wild Atlantic Way and with eating this good on offer throughout the city, I usually try to pencil a few days in when I can so that I can dine around - book yourself into The Stop B&B for a great sleep and a wonderful breakfast - but if I only had one day and one meal to spare, Daróg would certainly be at the top of my list. darogwinebar.com
