Darina Allen welcomes Dolmio move to warn of high sugar content

Chef says a lot more action is needed if health of Irish people is to be improved

Dolmio pasta sauces: Mars Food has promised to label some of its products, such as these sauces, as “occasional” Photograph: Stefan Wermuth/Reuters
Dolmio pasta sauces: Mars Food has promised to label some of its products, such as these sauces, as “occasional” Photograph: Stefan Wermuth/Reuters

Darina Allen

, one of Ireland’s leading chefs, has welcomed the admission by a major global food company that some of its products, such as Dolmio sauces, should only be eaten once a week because they contain so much sugar.

However, Ms Allen has warned that far more needs to be done by governments and companies if the health of Irish consumers is to improve.

Mars Food has promised to label some of its products, such as Dolmio as “occasional” to make it clear to customers that they should not be eaten every day. Meanwhile, other products would be marked as “everyday” meals.

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In all, Mars Food – applauded in some quarters and criticised in others for its move – has said about 5 per cent of its products will be labelled “occasional”, including lasagne, sauces, pesto, carbonara and macaroni.

‘Incredibly proud’

The new rules have been developed with public health bodies including the

World Health Organisation

. “We’re incredibly proud and excited to share our new five-year health and wellbeing ambition,” its president

Fiona Dawson

said.

“To maintain the authentic nature of the recipe, some Mars Food products are higher in salt, added sugar or fat. As these products are not intended to be eaten daily, Mars Food will provide guidance to consumers on-pack and on its website regarding how often these meal offerings should be consumed within a balanced diet.”

Ms Allen welcomed the move. “It is not the solution but at least it is a recognition that too much sugar and too much processed food is just not good for people.”

The chef and force behind the Ballymaloe Cookery School expressed concern about how many Irish consumers approach their diet.

“So many people’s lives are so busy and they feel they don’t have time to prepare food from scratch. But deeply processed food is just not nourishing us,” she said.

Low priority

“We can no longer plead ignorance and say we don’t know certain products are bad for us. We all make time and money for things we believe are important but unfortunately food is a long way down the list of priorities for many people.”

Ms Allen called for the incoming government to develop a national food policy and dedicate a ministerial portfolio to it.

“There is just no coherent food policy which would see us joining the dots and thinking about the health of the nation and not just about the production of food for export. I think we need a minister for food and I have written to the Taoiseach to say that, although I am sure my letter will end up in the bin.”

She said that since the 1960s young people have been encouraged to go to university “and rightly so. But all the focus then goes on academic attainment and we have taken food completely out of the school setting. Schools are not equipping young people with the most basic and most important life skill which is the ability to be able to feed themselves properly. We have failed several generations and played right into the hands of big multinationals by deskilling people.”

Conor Pope

Conor Pope

Conor Pope is Consumer Affairs Correspondent, Pricewatch Editor