Who was Ireland's first Christian missionary? Waterford folk will almost universally reply – and many historians will agree – that it was Declan of Ardmore. Born into a royal family of the Deise region, he was initially taught about Christ by a holy man named Dioma. A strong tradition holds that Declan then journeyed to study Christianity in Rome and returned as a bishop to his native Waterford during the early fifth century.
Soon, however, he was disconcerted to hear accounts of a newly arrived, British-born evangelist, who was also preaching the gospel. Who would become the top bishop in Ireland? To sort this out, legend has Declan travelling from Ardmore to Cashel to meet Patrick. Here, it was agreed that the Waterford saint would have unchallenged authority over the Deise, while Patrick would become primate of all Ireland – so face was saved all round.
A fully upgraded, 115km walking route commemorating this historic meeting was reopened last October by the Minister for Rural and Community Development, Heather Humphreys. Linking Cashel with Ardmore, it follows the journey taken by Declan on his way to meet Patrick. This means that Ireland now has a pilgrim trail that is comparable in length to the amount walked by most pilgrims visiting the Spanish Camino.
Economic benefits
Kevin O'Donnell is an Ardfinnan man credited with the idea of revitalising St Declan's Way. He conceived his plan when he walked the Camino and saw the economic benefits it had brought to an underdeveloped area of northwestern Spain.
He now hopes St Declan's Way will become an "Irish Camino" and immediately points to the strong credentials of the trail. "The route links the Rock of Cashel, Cahir Castle and Ladysabbey before crossing a pass in the Knockmealdown Mountains to Mount Melleray Abbey. Continuing through Lismore and Cappoquin, it finishes beautifully in Ardmore. Around almost every corner there is something of interest, and the route is the perfect length for a week-long walking holiday," he says.
St Declan’s Way is, he believes, “now set to become a major attraction, bringing tourism spending to west Waterford and south Tipperary”.
Lismore woman Grainne Moynihan is part of the St Declan's Way Management Committee. She believes pilgrim walkers are a new type of customer for Irish tourism that must be heartily welcomed. "They are people who seek value for money but are also willing to treat themselves after a long day's walking. We are now actively seeking these customers because they spend well and blend easily with local communities.
“They focus their expenditure directly on rural and less-developed areas in a way that car-borne travellers don’t do. Simply put, pilgrim walking creates many very positive impacts for rural communities.”
Since the route passes through the monastery grounds, the mountainside Cistercian Abbey at Mount Melleray is opening a pilgrim hostel to deal with the expected influx of visitors from St Declan's Way. One of the monks overseeing this development is Fr Denis Luke. He believes that increased footfall is crucial to the survival of the Abbey since, "monasteries have historically been places of safety and hospitality for pilgrims, and it is important for Melleray to continue with that tradition". The new hostel will, he believes, "provide space for visitors to connect with and deepen their faith".
Dr Phil Brennan of Waterford Camino Tours has already guided several groups along St Declan's Way. Pilgrim walking is, he believes, more than an outdoor exercise. "It's not an easy task to walk from Cashel to Ardmore, but in completing it, many people discover courage they didn't believe they possessed. Pilgrimage gives people time to process their thoughts, and by the time they have finished, they find their perspective on life has become clearer and more comforting."
St Declan's Pilgrim Path is now fully waymarked and can be walked independently. Those who would like to be guided can join a group tour walking stage three on Saturday, April 16th, for Pilgrim Paths Week 2022, and stage four and five on April 30th and May 1st. For further information and booking, see stdeclansway.ie.
John G O’Dwyer’s latest book titled, 50 Best Easy to Moderate Irish Walks, is published by Currach Books in April
Walk the way
A tradition has developed that St Declan’s Way is walked southwards from Cashel to Ardmore. The route has been completed by speedy walkers in three days, while many pilgrim hikers finish in five. For a rewarding experience, however, and time to absorb the variety of landscapes and many antiquities en route, I would suggest a more leisurely six-day outing as below.
Stage 1 – Cashel to Cahir, 21km
From the iconic Rock of Cashel, you pass a ruined Dominican Abbey and the magnificent Georgian Church of Ireland Cathedral before following quiet roads to the ancient monastic site at Lough Kent. From here, the route continues south before doglegging west to reach historic Cahir and your first overnight.
Stage 2 – Cahir to west of Goatenbridge, 18km
It is a magnificent start today, as you follow the river Suir south past the ramparts of the great Butler Castle and continue to reach the ornamental bridge leading to the Swiss Cottage – a fine example of a 19th-century "cottage orné". Then, it is on through the picturesque village of Ardfinnan, where a monastery was established in the sixth century by St Finnian. Finally, you pass medieval Lady's Abbey before crossing the river Tar and ending nearby Goatenbridge.
Stage 3 – West of Goatenbridge to Mount Melleray Abbey, 20km
Today is the highlight of your walk: the crossing of the Knocmealdown Mountains. After a steady upward ascent on benign paths, you reach a large tower constructed to honour republican leader Liam Lynch, who was shot here during the Civil War. Then, it's over a pass known locally as the Crois for a great sweeping descent to the famous Cistercian Abbey at Mount Melleray, which makes for an unforgettable overnight stay.
Stage 4 – Mount Melleray to Cappoquin, 17km
This morning country lanes and quiet back roads lead you on past the breathtaking castle, owned by the Duke of Devonshire. Beyond is the magnificent heritage town of Lismore. This was founded as a monastery in the seventh century by St Carthage, and is well worth taking an hour or two to explore. Leave Lismore with regret, by way of Lady Louisa's walk. Continue south of the river Blackwater to reach Cappoquin by crossing an elegant bridge for your overnight stay.
Stage 5 – Cappoquin to Aglish, 15km
Today you head south to the spectacular Hindu Gothic Gateway and bridge leading to Dromana House. This was originally built to welcome the local lord, Francis Villiers Stuart, on his return from honeymoon in Brighton. Afterwards, rustic lanes and tiny roads convey you to the deeply rural village of Aglish.
Stage 6 – Aglish to Ardmore, 24km
The final stage of your pilgrimage leads by Geosh and Mount Stuart, before picking up the lovely and sylvan St Declan's Road. This carries you over the river Licky to a crossing of the busy M25 at Grange. Now, it is but a short ramble through fields and along back roads to finish spectacularly along the great sweeping beach that leads into Ardmore and your journey's end.
