APPARENTLY there are now a million British immigrants living in Spain; I imagine that there is a substantial Irish contingent there, too. They are joined each year by a horde of holidaymakers who head off to the narrow strip of land that runs along the east coast of Spain. I wonder how many of these have ever left the highly developed coastal region to venture inland?
This year while on holiday, I took a short drive inland to visit a few wineries. The hinterland includes some of the least populated parts of Spain, but does have the very attractive lively university city of Murcia, certainly worth a visit. Along the coast, the hot year-round climate is perfect for oranges and other fruits; further inland, the climate is more continental, and the vine takes over.
Until recently, this part of Spain concentrated on bulk; there has been a welcome move towards quality, but prices remain very reasonable. Of the three sub-regions of Murcia, Jumilla is probably the best-known, followed by Yecla. Alicante and Valencia lie in a different autonomous region, but use very similar grape varieties to make very similar wines.
The Monastrell grape (know as Mourvèdre in southern France) is the most popular grape in all of these regions. Once dismissed as a workhorse variety, to be used only in big beefy reds, a number of producers have succeeded in making excellent wines, from the light and fruity joven (or young) to more substantial wines of real quality. Other grapes include the Spanish Tempranillo and Garnacha, as well as the well-known international varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Syrah appears to work very well here, particularly when blended with Monastrell.
Rafael Cambra runs his own eponymous boutique winery high up in the mountains, as well as El Angosto, the family estate in Valencia. A former monastery that produced virtually everything from wine to bread, olive oil and apricots for the local populace, El Angosto was forced to close by the Franco regime in the 1950s. Back then volume was considered more important than quality, and all were encouraged to send their grapes to the local co-operative.
Rafael is obviously a highly talented winemaker, successfully taming the powerful Monastrell grape to produce wines of real elegance and style. The red wines from El Angosto offer excellent value; his boutique wines are superb. He argues that this region has great possibilities. “We are like the New World of Spain. We are allowed to experiment here with all sorts of grape varieties and styles of wine. If it is good enough, we will be allowed call it Valencia.”
The Castaño family are one of only half-a-dozen producers in Yecla, but have great ambitions for the area. Their wines have been very highly rated by American critics in the past. Having tasted them over a decade or so, I believe that they have improved greatly over the past year or two, and are now less extracted and oaky than before.
Juan Gil is another winery that has improved greatly over the past few years. Founded a century ago, the bodega has been completely modernised and a new generation now produces wines with plenty power, but also some class.
Strangely, it can be quite difficult to find the local wines on the eastern seaboard; most of the supermarkets and restaurants seem to offer a better selection of Rioja and cheap table wine. However, we now have a decent selection here in Ireland, and those seeking value for money should certainly seek them out.
Short and sweet
●Wine Australia will host another Bringing Australia to Ireland tasting on September 3rd in the Royal College of Physicians on Dublin's Kildare Street. An Evening in the Adelaide Hills will be hosted by vineyard manager Marty Edwards of The Lane Vineyards. Marty will introduce the wines and reveal more about this picturesque region. In recent years, Adelaide Hills has built a reputation for its cool-climate reds and whites. Tickets are €15pp and available from Wine Australia. E-mail Ireland@
wineaustralia.com; Tel: 065-7077264.
●Further to my recent article on wine courses, I have learnt that Dermot Nolan, formerly a
lecturer with the Wine Board of Ireland, intends running WSET Diploma classes in Ireland. Details at nolan_mw@ compuserve.com.
●La Cave, the grand dame of Dublin wine bars, in South Anne Street, has announced details of
its new wine evenings. Presented by a number of experts including Dale Gatcum, these are ideal
for beginners, and the ¤35 charge includes a light supper. Tel: 01-6794409.
WINES OF THE WEEK
El Angosto 2006, Valenica, 14%,€14.50. An incongruous blend of Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Graciano, Garnacha, Syrah and Petit Verdot, the lifted aromatic nose, and freshness of the delicious rounded fruits belie the origin of this wine, and its 14% alcohol. There is an attractive savoury note of black olives too, adding to its food-friendliness. Stockists: Ennis, South Circular Road; Michael's Food Wine, Deerpark; Fork Cork, Newbridge; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Listons, Camden St; Red Island, Skerries; Lilliput Store, Arbour Hill.
El Tribu, 2006, Valencia, 14%, €13.50. A blend of Monastrell and Syrah, this is a delightful fresh and fragrant wine with soft and rounded elegant fruits and a delectable smooth finish. A good all-rounder. Great value, too. Stockists: The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; The Wicklow Wine Co; The Drink Store, Manor Street; Listons, Camden Street; Power Smullen, Lucan; Dunnes Butchers, Donnybrook; Mortons, Ranelagh; 64 Wine, Glasthule; The Hole in the Wall, D7; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer St; Red Island, Skerries.
Castaño Monastrell 2007, Yecla, 14%, €11.99. This has good fairly concentrated loganberry and other dark fruits; full-bodied and powerful with a rounded and easy finish. One to drink alongside red meat dishes. Stockists: Fallon Byrne, Exchequer St, Dublin; The Vineyard, Galway; Florries Fine Wines, Tramore; The Bottle Shop, Meath St; World Wide Wines, Waterford; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Cellar Master, Stillorgan Industrial Park.
Macabeo/Chardonnay 2008 Bodega Castaño, Yecla, 13%, €11.99. Until very recently, it was best to avoid white wines from this area; even now most are correct but unexciting. However, both El Angosto and Castaño make whites that are a step ahead of the rest. The Macabeo/ Chardonnay is forward, fresh and pleasantly fruity, with melons and greengages, and a dry finish.
Stockists: The Bottle Shop, Meath St; World Wide Wines, Waterford; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; and Cellar Master, Stillorgan Industrial Park.
TWO UNDER TWELVE
Luzón 2007, Jumilla, 14%, €9.99.A wine to please the bargain-hunters among you in the coming months. Made from a Monastrell/Syrah blend this is a lovely big soft ripe red wine with a slightly savoury finish, but plenty of juicy dark fruits, too. I preferred it to its more expensive big brother, the Castillo de Luzón. Drink it alongside most red and white meats or cheesey bakes. Stockist: O'Briens.
Juan Gil Monastrell de Cepas Viejas 2008, Jumilla, 15%, €11.60.Wines Direct have a number of very good wines from Jumilla. This is one of the stars; big and very powerful, with subtle oak flavours mingling in, but it is the excellent concentrated smooth swarthy dark fruits that win out. Great value for money. The Juan Gil Pedrera, €10 from Wines Direct, is also well worth trying. Stockist: Wine Direct, www.wines direct.ie.
