With St Patricks Day in mind, we look at three wines with very different connections to Ireland
Jean-Michel Cazes
I had the opportunity to taste the most recent releases from Jean-Michel Cazes, proprietor of Château Lynch-Bages, and leading player on the Bordeaux scene. Although unconnected to the Lynch family, Cazes has built strong links with this country, and Galway in particular. Other than Lynch-Bages, Cazes also has projects in the Languedoc, Portugal and Australia.
For me, the most pleasant surprises were three red wines, all showing far better than I had anticipated. The Michel Lynch Rouge, Bordeaux 2007 had some very stylish rounded red fruits, a pleasant herby touch, and subtle new oak. This would partner roast lamb or beef very nicely indeed. Michel Lynch Rouge 2007 is €12.99 from Super Valu, Tesco, Centra, Superquinn and Carry Outs Nationwide.
A step up from this was the Château Villa Bel Air 2004, a red Graves, showing classic leafy soft red fruits, good concentration and surprisingly good length for a wine at this price. Again, a good match for plain roasts. Château Villa Bel Air 2004 is €19.99 and is available through independent wine shops and off-licences.
The third wine features as a wine of the week.
Minervois L'Ostal Cazes 2004, 14.5%, €21.99.Not the cheapest Minervois available, but a fine example of what this area can produce. From the Cazes operation in the Languedoc, it is a wonderfully rich, powerful wine with very polished dark fruits and ample well-integrated tannins. For a real treat, decant and drink alongside more full-bodied red meat dishes. Stockists:Next Door, Main Street, Bunclody, Co Wexford; Fahys, Ballina; The Vintry, Rathgar; Sweeneys, Harts Corner, Glasnevin; Terroirs, Morehampton Road, Donnybrook.
Château Soussac
Former publisher and editor of Social Personal, Nell Stewart Liberty and husband Joe Beattie moved from Dublin to Bordeaux in September 2005, looking for somewhere to live in the wine country. The idea was to buy somewhere they could operate as a BB. They chanced upon Château Soussac in the Entre-Deux-Mers region. Not only was Soussac a beautiful château with swimming pool, it also had five hectares of vines and beautiful old chais (cellars). The vines are still young, having been planted in 2003, but with a density of 5,000 vines per hectare, they have the potential to produce high quality wine.
Stewart Liberty says she really enjoys the wine side of things. “We do most of the work in the chais, and you really feel connected and part of it, from the day the buds appear, to when the wine is bottled. The aim was always to produce a really good wine, and we have got a good reaction so far.” Sensibly, they employed the services of a neighbouring winemaker, who has made all the difference. A short drive from Bordeaux city, Soussac is also the venue for wine and cookery courses. See www.chateau-soussac.com.
Château Soussac 2006 Bordeaux, 13%, €13.99.Quite a classy nose, with a bit of style; good precise elegant fruit, blackcurrants and hedgerows, with a good dry finish. Well-made Bordeaux at a fair price that would make a good partner for roast lamb. Stockists:The Corkscrew, Chatham Street; Londis, Malahide; Swan's on the Green, Naas; Thomas Woodberry, Galway; On the Grapevine, Dalkey.
Niepoort Sásta
The Irish connection to certain wines can sometimes seem like some Irish footballers of the Charlton era – very tenuous, and motivated by more than nationalism.
This is an Irish wine story with a difference. Dirk Niepoort claims no connection to Ireland. Of Dutch extraction, he is now one of the leading producers in the Douro Valley in Portugal.
Some years ago he began producing a special label for each country that imported his wine, featuring a cartoon of some sort. In each case, he commissioned an artist from that country. When Ireland’s turn came around, he asked Fintan Taite to do the honours. Taite is a freelance illustrator, whose work has featured in books and newspapers, including The Irish Times; see his website www.fintantaite.com. This is his first wine label (left, centre). His brief was fairly simple; create something that will be uniquely Irish, and make sure it is humorous. Taite came up with a number of ideas, and Niepoort made the final choice. The cartoon is the artist’s take on Saint Patrick and the snake. The postage-stamp style perforations appear on all Niepoort wine labels.
Sásta 2006, Douro, 13%, €14.95.The label may be amusing, but the wine should be taken a bit more seriously. Rich but supple, with very nicely spiced dark fruits and a harmonious finish. I would try this alongside pork and chicken dishes. This is very keenly priced given the quality. Sásta, as béarla, means satisfied, pleased or contented. I don't think you will be disappointed. Stockists:Available in half-bottles, magnums and other large formats, as well as bottles. From Listons, Camden Street; Wicklow Wine Co, Wicklow; Redmond's of Ranelagh; Red Island, Skerries; Gibney's of Malahide; Fallon Byrne, Dublin 2; Probus Wines, Oughterard.
