1 Set the oven to 160 degrees.

2 Heat the olive oil in a casserole and season the lamb shanks. When the oil is gently smoking, colour the shanks all around for five minutes, then add the vegetables, garlic and thyme. Continue to colour everything for a short while, then add the tomato purée followed by the wine, then the stock, balsamic vinegar, anchovies, orange peel and sugar.

3 Bring to a simmer, cover and cook in the oven for 2½ hours until the shanks are soft and meltingly tender.

4 Trim the stalks from the cabbage leaves and wash. Cook the cabbage in salted boiling water for three minutes until it is just soft. Drain and plunge into some iced water to keep its colour. Drain once more, pat dry and set aside.

5 Remove the lamb shanks carefully onto a plate. Skim off as much fat as you can from the surface of the liquid and pick out the thyme. Season the mixture, then purée a little with a stick blender, it shouldn't be too smooth, just a little pulpy.

6 Put the lamb back into the juice and either keep it warm or you can reheat it later. (Keep it in a cool place if the latter is the case.) Up to this stage it can be even done the day before. When you are ready to serve, reheat the lamb.

7 To make the polenta, heat the milk gently with the rosemary. Remove the rosemary after two minutes or so. Whisk the polenta in a steady stream into the milk. Cook it out for five minutes, then add the butter and Parmesan, season and keep it warm.

8 Put the cabbage into the lamb juice to heat up for a couple of minutes, then you are ready to serve. Spoon the polenta onto warm plates with a lamb shank on top, and place the cabbage alongside.