This was one of the last dishes I tried on my trip. It’s refreshingly simple and very delicious. Add one tablespoon of olive oil to a large pan and fry the pancetta over a medium heat for three to four minutes, until crispy, then set aside.

Reduce the heat slightly and add the onion and half the garlic to the pan. Fry for two to three minutes, until slightly softened. Tip in the carrot and cook for six to eight minutes, until tender. Once cooked add the breadcrumbs and stir to combine, followed by the pancetta and thyme leaves. Season to taste.

Fill each squid with this (leaving 1.5cm gap as the squid will shrink during cooking), then seal the top with a cocktail stick.

Put the potatoes in a medium sized pan and cover with cold water and a little salt. Starting the potatoes in cold water allows them to cook more evenly. Bring to the boil then reduce to a simmer and cook for 12-15 minutes, or until tender. Drain and allow them to cool slightly before peeling. Once peeled, roughly chop into cubes.

Place the pan back on a medium heat and add one tablespoon of olive oil. Add half the filled squid tubes and fry for five to six minutes, turning halfway through. Repeat with the remaining squid, then set it aside while you cook the greens.

Heat the pan once more over a medium heat and add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil along with the garlic. Add the chard and kale and sauté for three to four minutes until tender, stirring so it cooks evenly and the oil coats the leaves.

Serve the squid with the potatoes, sautéed greens, a lemon wedge and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.