WHISKEY:Whiskey afficionados might pour themselves a dram and get stuck into this new book on the subject
ANYONE VAGUELY INTERESTED in whiskey (or whisky, indeed) should get a copy of Ian Buxton's new book 101 Whiskies to Try before You Die. This is not a "dream selection" book featuring all of the incredibly expensive whiskies available (a 64-year-old single malt Scotch recently sold for a staggering £100,000). This is an insider's guide, rightly cynical of some of the ploys used to sell very expensive whiskey, full of straight-forward advice decoding many of the more complicated styles available. Having spent 20 years in the whisky business, and judged in many competitions, Buxton knows what he is talking about.
Buxton is admirably frank at times. “Some writers have been a little too close to the industry, sharing the same bath as the trade,” he says. “I get to taste the €10,000 bottles but what is the point of that for the general public? This book is about accessible whisky for real people.” So there are no one-off bottlings or single-cask releases. Around half of the entries cost less than £40 in the UK. It would cost £7,100 to buy all 101 of the featured bottles, which, leaving aside the three most expensive whiskies, works out at an average of £56 per bottle. When I asked him where the best-value or “sweet spot” for whisky lies, without hesitation he said €50-€80. His pick for the best value in the book is the Wine Society’s Special Highland Blend – “a serious, under-rated and little-known bargain”. It is £19.35 per litre bottle on its list at the moment.
The book features whisky from as far afield as Japan, India, Canada and Sweden, with a healthy number of bourbons, too. However, there are only five Irish bottles featured, compared to 72 from Scotland, Buxton’s home country. He defends this, arguing that Irish whiskey went through a very difficult period, from which it is only now slowly emerging. “Irish whiskey was in its grave until recently. Figures show that 60-70 per cent of exports went into Irish coffee. Yet as late as 1870, Irish whiskey ruled the world, but then spiralled down on to a long-term decline. We now have a very vibrant, exciting industry that is starting to go places.” Hopefully the next edition (already planned) will have a few more. Pictured are the five Irish whiskeys featured in the book.
101 Whiskies to Try Before You Die,by Ian Buxton £12.95 (€14.95) published by Hachette
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Tyrconnell Single Malt, Cooley Distillery, 40%, €30-35Quite a light nose, with lemon and a subtle spiciness. The palate is smooth with a pleasant oiliness and some tangy lemon, finishing very dry and long. Stockists: Dunnes Stores, most Super Valu, various off-licences, including Mitchell Son; Celtic Whiskey Shop; James Fox; O'Brien's; Harvest, Galway; O'Donovan's, Cork; Kilbeggan Distillery. In Northern Ireland: available from Tesco, Dunnes Stores, Sainsburys, Asda, Supervalu
Green Spot Irish Whiskey, 40%, €42.25 (€13.95 for a 100ml flask)A pot still whiskey made in limited quantities by Irish Distillers, this whiskey has a cult following. A pale colour, with a lively, clean palate and nose, with a touch of honey and some spice too. It is powerful, with an oily lanolin character, and some sweetness on the finish. Individual and very moreish. Stockists: Mitchell Son; McCambridge's, Galway; Celtic Whiskey Shop, Dawson Street; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Gibney's, Malahide; James Fox; McAlindon's, Belfast; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Bennett's, Howth; Callan's, Dundalk; The Gourmet Shop, Rathgar; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Florrie's, Tramore
Jameson 18-Year-Old Limited Reserve Irish Whiskey, 40%, €122A very subtle evolving nose with layers of Christmas cake, toasted nuts and spice. The palate is quite spectacular, concentrated and smooth, with coffee, nuts and fruit, and an excellent finish. Harmonious, beautifully balanced and quite delicious. A real treat for the whiskey lover in your life. Stockists: Widely available in off-licences and supermarkets
Redbreast 12-Year-Old Pot Still Irish Whiskey, 40%, €41.99A lovely full-on nose with complex nuts, spice and fruit. The palate is full-bodied, rich and rounded with more nuts, toasted oak and caramel. It lingers beautifully in the mouth. Stockists: Widely available from off-licences and supermarkets
Bushmills 16-Year-Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey, 40%, €75An old favourite of mine, this is a richly flavoured and very appealing whiskey. The nose is full of toasty wood as is the palate, cut through by a very attractive citrus note, along with dark chocolate and a lovely sweetness on the finish. Very classy whiskey. Stockists: Widely available
DIARY DATES
Dublin’s Merrion Hotel is running a series of whiskey “Fireside Chats” – tutored tastings of some of the best Irish whiskeys. The next event, on Wednesday, will feature the Jameson boutique reserve range (Jameson RVR, Jameson 18, Jameson Gold and Jameson 12). Tickets cost €27 and include canapés. Tel: 01-6030600.
Dicey Reillys Off-licence is holding an English beer sale for the month of November, with more than 50 English beers at four for €10
