Bargain buys for Christmas

WINE : The drop in excise duty is another reason to shop local, with good prices this year in supermarkets and wine shops

WINE: The drop in excise duty is another reason to shop local, with good prices this year in supermarkets and wine shops

WILL IT WORK?Changes in the Budget mean a reduction in excise duty on wine by almost 50 cent, 60 cent including VAT. The aim, of course, is to take away the massive incentive to shop for alcohol up North. Irish duty will decrease from €2.46 per bottle, excluding VAT, to €1.97, not only reversing the increase of last December, but taking off a further 10 cent.

It is still not parity with the UK, where duty is €1.77, but it is not too far off. I am less sure about spirits, where prices were considerably cheaper, but when it comes to wine, the difference has certainly shrunk, and may take away one major incentive to make that trip.

Of course, many will still travel to France where the excise duty is zero, and the VAT a measly couple of per cent, but it will certainly be welcomed by the hard-pressed wine-drinker, and the wine trade. There will always be a slight difference in the price of wine in this country and in the UK – it is one of the largest wine markets in the world – but we can now expect retailers to provide some real competition to their northern counterparts.

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In general, the trade has reacted quickly to the recession, dropping prices to very competitive levels. We can now look forward to further decreases. A whirlwind tour of our nation’s multiples last week yielded plenty of bargains, some at mouth-watering prices.

I am a fan of the Cono Sur Pinot Noir, consistently the best value Pinot in this country. Tesco has its big brother, the Cono Reserva 2007, at €9.49. It also stocks Carmen Pinot Noir Reserve at an even more competitive price. Special offers have at times brought its price down to €8.99.

For something a little more full-bodied, the Superquinn Classic Côtes du Rhône is a steal at €7. A new addition is the Classic Australian Shiraz, which punches way above its weight at €8. If you prefer white wines, Superquinn is offering the Settesoli Fiano at €7.50, which will cover most bases for Christmas dinner.

Dunnes has a pretty good Fiano too, the Inycon, at €8.49, as well as the delicious Laurent Miquel Nord Sud Viognier (€8.99, down from €10.99), and for something unusual, the Thomas Mitchell Marsanne is €7.99. For red wines, I would find it hard to pick between the Thomas Mitchell Shiraz (€7.99) from Australia, and the Laurent Miquel Nord Sud Syrah (also €8.99). Aldi has the Ripper Shiraz at €9.99.

In O’Briens, the South African Kanu Merlot (€6.99), the Ramos Loios (€9.99) from Portugal, the amazing Protocolo from Spain and the Côtes du Rhône below are all worth serious attention.

Lastly, at Marks & Spencer I would head straight for either the Vinalta Malbec, seriously good value at €6.99, or the Australian Shiraz at €10.49. A little bit pricier, but well worth the money, is its delicious, savoury Aigle Noir Pinot Noir from Limoux at €13.49.

Last minute gift ideas

Wine Australia has come up with a few Christmas gift ideas for the wine lover (or rugby fan) in your life. On January 20th, it will host a Barossa wine tasting and four-course dinner in Fallon Byrne, Dublin 2, with winemaker Toby Barlow of St Hallett hosting the event. The price is €65 per person.

In February and March, Fallon Byrne will be the venue for a four-week Australian wine course hosted by John McDonnell. The course costs €100. Contact Dave Gallagher at 01-4721012 to book.

Lastly, if you fancy seeing some rugby, Wine Australia is offering lunch in Ely CHQ in the IFSC, Dublin 2 (with Italian-themed Australian wines) and tickets to Ireland vs Italy at Croke Park for €100 per person, to cover wine, lunch and match ticket for the February 6th game. Tel: 065-7077264.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Cono Sur Pinot Noir Reserva 2007, Chile, 14%, €9.49.A big leap up from the basic Cono Sur, the reserva is full of fragrant, light juicy cherries, smooth but piquant, with a very stylish finish. Possibly a little bit oaky at first, but this recedes after a few minutes. It does have a lovely purity of Pinot fruit at a fairly amazing price. If you fancy a real treat, look out for the 20 Barrels Pinot Noir from independents at around €22. Stockist: Tesco.

The Ripper Shiraz, Western Australia 2006, 14.5%, €9.99.Made by Hope estate, which has vineyards in both Western Australia and the Hunter Valley, this is a big, smooth and easy red with relatively light but pure dark fruits. I could see this slipping down very easily over Christmas dinner, or with a few slices of spiced beef. Stockist: Aldi.

Settesoli Fiano 2008 IGT Sicily, 13%, €7.50.If you haven't tried Fiano before, this is the perfect excuse. There are some really tasty examples available at well under €10. It will make a refreshing change from Sauvignon, and has a bit of real character. Dry, with plenty of refreshing citrus, but with some very tasty, rich pineapple notes also; great with seafood, but big enough to tackle the turkey. Stockist: Superquinn.

Signature Côtes du Rhône 2007 Cave de Rasteau, 13.5%, €9.99.I have featured this warming, rounded, lightly spicy wine once before, but this will come into its own over Christmas, its lovely rich dark fruits being the perfect foil for turkey, ham and even spiced beef. Stockist: O'Briens.

Sauvignon for sipping

If you fancy buying in a few light sipping wines for Christmas, I have tasted the three wines below in recent weeks. Sauvignons from its original habitat in the Loire, these are three delicious, refreshing wines, ideal for sharing with a few unexpected guests who drop in, or with a salad lunch.

Touraine Sauvignon Joel Delaunay 2008, 12%, €13.99.A very attractive refreshing Sauvignon with light, clean, green fruits, and a crisp finish. Perfect for sipping on its own, or with light salads. Stockists: O'Donovan's, Cork; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Thomas's Deli, Foxrock, Dublin; The Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McCabe's, Mount Merrion, and The Gables, Foxrock, Dublin; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4.

L'Aumonier Le Touraine Blanc 2008, 13%, €13.99.This was a real hit before dinner; very enjoyable, although not typically Loire in style, with very pleasant, broad, textured green fruits and some gooseberries. Serve as a posh party wine or with fish or goats' cheese. Stockists: Enowine, Monkstown IFSC, Dublin; Kingdom Food Wine, Tralee; Bramley Lodge, Cobh Cross.

Sancerre "Florè" Vincent Pinard 2008, 13%, €22.50.The 2007 version of this wine was one of the finest whites I tasted this year. The 2008 has a lovely fragrant, lemony green fruit nose. It is crisp, refined and very minerally, with an enticing lemon zest; possibly a little young, but a wine of real class and character. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook, Dublin 4.

John Wilson

John Wilson

John Wilson, a contributor to The Irish Times, is a wine critic