Before the seemingly unstoppable advance of the modern chicken (it was not always going to be this way), wild birds found their way more often into our kitchen and on to our table. Many older domestic cookbooks written before the advent of the second World War are littered (pardon the pun) with game recipes.

Many wild birds are extremely lean, so care must be taken when cooking them. The process of larding (sewing fat into the bird or wrapping it in caul fat) is a good way of keeping the bird moist while cooking.

I have never seen a partridge in a pear tree, but I have cooked many and they do pair well with pear (no more puns, I promise).

Most older partridge recipes suggest either roasting the bird whole or using it to make a game pie. We probably don’t make too many pies at home any more, but I find the task rewarding, especially if you are having friends over and you want to impress them with your ability to make your own puff pastry (even if you just purchase it frozen from the supermarket).

Traditional partridge pie was not a light affair. As well as the bird, it often included veal or steak, bacon and possibly some offal for good measure. I could only imagine eating it with a stiff drink of whiskey, as I wonder how one would digest all that protein.

I like to make a lighter, more modern version of partridge pie with root vegetables such as celeriac, Jerusalem artichokes and some wild mushrooms. Peel and chop the celeriac and artichokes and arrange at the bottom of an oven proof pie dish.

Debone two partridges (four breasts and four legs) and lay the meat on top of the vegetables. Season with some sea salt and add a little thyme, sage or rosemary. Lay the mushrooms on top of the pheasant and then moisten with some thick chicken stock, just enough to just cover. Lay puff pastry over the top and glaze with egg yolk. Bake at 160 degrees for 90 minutes.