The economic downturn and a poor vintage mean that producers have been forced to cut their prices by up to 50 per cent
THE WINE SIDE of Bordeaux is currently in the throes of the en primeur campaign, the annual sales push of the leading châteaux of the region. A month or so ago, the more diligent buyers from Ireland and elsewhere gathered to taste cask samples of the 2008 vintage. Having taken a look at demand and the world economy, the properties have now started to release their prices for the vintage.
Buying en primeur means purchasing wine that is still lying in cask, and will not be bottled for another year or so. I have not had the opportunity to taste the vintage, and so will refrain from comment as to its quality. However, given that the world economy is not in the best of shape to put it mildly, and that the 2008 vintage will not go down in history as one of the greats, prices are considerably lower than in previous years.
Very unusually, several of the first growths, the very cream of the crop, have declared their initial release prices, possibly in a bid to keep some sanity in the market. Château Latour came out at €110, almost half the price of last year, followed by Château Mouton-Rothschild at €100, 50 per cent lower than in 2007.
Before you rush out to buy, remember that these prices are per bottle, and before the négociants, wine merchants and Irish government add on their own percentages. The final cost of a €110 bottle when it lands in your cellar a year or so hence, will be more like €190. Not exactly a cheap bottle of wine, from what is likely to be an average vintage. Some seasoned observers also suggest that the top properties have released only a small quantity of their wine in the first tranche or offer, and the price of their second may be considerably higher.
Château Léoville and Langoa-Barton, perennial over-achievers in Bordeaux, as usual released at a reasonable price, and sold over 85 per cent of their production on the first day. Léoville was €23 per bottle, which should eventually work out at around €40 when the extra costs are taken into account.
But what about the rest of Bordeaux? The 150 or so châteaux who can sell their wine en primeur are the glamour boys of the region. The other 10,000 producers are less fortunate, having to compete in a highly competitive world market to sell their wares.
In recent years, the standard of wine making has shot up in Bordeaux; there are plenty of really good wines that sell between €10 and €20. While the basic appellations of Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur can offer excellent value, I was introduced to a newish appellation, Côtes de Bordeaux, on a recent trip to the region.
In a welcome bid to simplify the 57 different appellations in Bordeaux, five different regions have come together to form a single entity. So in future, Côtes de Blaye, Bourg, Castillon, Francs, and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux will all
instead be labelled Côtes de Bordeaux. As these regions include a great many of the best value wines of Bordeaux, it should provide a very happy hunting ground for the Bordeaux aficionado.
As has been argued here before, red Bordeaux is a food wine. If you try it solo, you will probably find it a little dry and acidic. These very same properties are a positive advantage when matched with food, meats and cheese in particular, providing a “cut” that improves both wine and food.
Do not ignore white Bordeaux either, particularly if you are a Sauvignon drinker; I reckon that the best value Sauvignon in the world is currently being produced not in
Chile, New Zealand or the Loire, but in Bordeaux. There are some really good crisp dry aromatic whites at prices to beat any credit crunch blues. jwilson@irishtimes.com
Next week: wine holidays in Bordeaux
Château Haut La Perrière 2006 Côtes de Castillon 13% €12.25.Elegant, smooth, and now fully mature, a suave, even sophisticated wine that will sit very nicely alongside chicken and pork dishes. Very reasonably priced, too. Stockist:Superquinn.
Château Pey La Tour, Bordeaux Supérieur 2006 13.5% €16.99.Balanced, poised impeccably made wine with medium-bodied blackcurrant and plum fruits, a trace of fine tannins running along the backbone and a dry finish. Restrained wine to enjoy with red and white meats, plainly cooked. Stockist:O'Briens.
Château La Bretonnière, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, Elevé en Fûts de Chêne 2005 13.5% €17.45.Lightly oaked, but this is less obvious after a minute or two. Behind the oak, there is no shortage of very tasty forest fruits, and a firm tannic backbone. I tried this with a home-made burger; but it would be even better with some loin chops of lamb. Stockists:Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin; Probus wines, Oughterard; Red Island wines, Skerries; Harvest Off-Licences, Galway; Partidges, Gorey; The Malt House, Trim; Wicklow Wine Company, Wicklow.
Château La Prade, Côtes de Francs 2004 13.5% €22.50.From the first sniff, this exudes class. Intense just-ripe blackcurrant and plum fruits, a whiff of stylish oak, and a firm tannic finish. A wine to decant a little before dinner and serve with roast beef or lamb. Stockists:Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin; Probus wines, Oughterard; Red Island wines, Skerries; Harvest Off-Licences, Galway; Partidges, Gorey; The Malt House, Trim; Wicklow Wine Company, Wicklow.
TWO UNDER €12
La Grande Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc Dourthe 2007 12% €11.99.From the northerly reaches of Bordeaux, La Grande Cuvée is an edgy crisp dry white with a mouth-watering blend of citrus and green fruits. Great on its own, even better with oysters or mussels.
Stockist:O'Briens.
Château Fage 2006 Graves de Vayres 12.5% €11.75Another steal from the cellars of Mitchell Son. Graves de Vayres is a small region on the slopes on the Entre-Deux-Mers, not to be confused with the better-known Graves south of the city of Bordeaux. This is a captivating wine, deliciously light and easy to knock back. Smooth, but with a refreshing light acidity, this will make perfect drinking this summer. On its own, with pork or ham and other charcuterie.
Stockist:Mitchell Son.
