The days of gritty exfoliation creams are long gone, and it’s a good thing. I’ve never encountered anyone who isn’t overzealous with exfoliating. Most of us operate under the belief that if our faces aren’t pink and hot as a ham coming out of the oven, then we haven’t rubbed vigorously enough. Heat and swelling are signs of skin damage and irritation, and we need to reject the mentality that “a good scrub” is something skin needs.
The gritty particles in physical exfoliants are not beneficial. They can cause those annoying little broken veins in the face by bursting capillaries, and are simply an overly aggressive way of exfoliating the skin. Acids do a much more effective job without any friction.
AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), along with retinoids and sunscreens, are the only skincare ingredients with proven anti-aging benefits. I find the term "anti-aging" distasteful, but these ingredients can help to counteract the poor decisions we make (eg your student holiday to Santa Ponsa when you rubbed cooking oil into your skin) which causes damage and aging to happen prematurely. Skin quality will naturally diminish over time, but active ingredients like AHAs will increase cell turnover in the skin, work on pigmentation and acne scarring (the red kind), and generally improve the absorption of all your other skincare products.
This way, it can always look and feel its best, regardless of age. Acids will essentially help to achieve the best skin you can have, and are suitable for every age and skin type, apart from the extremely sensitive. Even then, gentler polyhydroxy acids will still work well.
Glycolic acid dissolves the bonds between dead surface skin cells and the newer cells underneath, so it is far more effective at eliminating dullness than a gritty exfoliator. For skin which is unused to AHAs, a low percentage acid toner is a good place to start. Pixi Glow Tonic (£18.00 from pixibeauty.com) contains 5 per cent glycolic acid and is a perfect product to apply directly after cleansing, before serum. It will help with tackling fine lines and sun damage.
Elave Sensitive Rejuvenating Cleansing Treatment (€26.95) is a super effective product from an Irish brand. With 12 per cent glycolic acid, this cleanser functions as a great exfoliating mask. Apply it to clean skin for five minutes, rinse thoroughly with a warm, damp flannel, and you will immediately see and feel the difference in the evenness and smoothness of your skin. First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads (€31.02 from feelunique.com) are another option.
At about 5 per cent strength, one pad used nightly after cleansing will gently exfoliate the skin, and maintain turnover rate. For a stronger product, Neostrata Glycolic Peel (€49.95) is hard to beat. You get four sachets in a box, and used once monthly or so, the 10 per cent glycolic and 10 per cent citric acid solution will maintain skin texture at its best. Acids are like a workout for your skin – regular use will keep it at peak efficiency, minimise breakouts and maintain good texture.
