Members of the London Gay Men’s Choir decked out in orange high-vis suits singing the rousing Pilgrim’s Chorus from Tannhauser at the finale of Anya Hindmarch’s show in London’s old Billingsgate Fish Market was a sight to remember as fashion week drew to a close.
So too were the bags, a contemporary, creative and humorous line up of clutches, totes and shoppers embossed with familiar roadway signage. A black satchel with “No Entry” and a featherweight Ebury bag with “Do Not Litter” were typical.
Hindmarch took new directions in every way this season by including scarves, knitwear and coats for the first time, a significant development move. Head of a global brand with a turnover of about £20 million and more than 50 stores around the world, she is a designer who can always be relied on for fresh excitement every season.
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So too nowadays can Hunter with Alasdhair Willis at the helm, moving an old heritage brand into new terrains and territories. The show installation, a series of waterfalls constructed on scaffolding in a disused fire station, was remarkable and brought another meaning to live streaming.
The clothes, splash printed parkas, quilted coats and chunky zig zag knits took their colours and textures from earth and rock. The best of the new footwear were simple but stylish ankle boots.
Not everything was quite so exciting. Michael Van Der Ham’s mix of appliquéd sheers and gowns hand-embroidered with metal and velvet seemed overworked; the best ensemble was a simple bright red sweater over a layered embroidered skirt.
Antonio Berardi, a master of the flourish, created exaggerated shapes that spiralled and swept into awkward contortions around the body despite the beauty of his fabrics and occasional clean cut tailoring.
As the week ended, some of the trends noted were young, up and coming female designers opting for smaller, less elaborate presentations – Danielle Romeril, Claire Barrow, Faustine Steinmetz and Molly Goddard.
For winter, opulent fabrics like brocades and jacquards were everywhere in rich metallic colours with fancy trimmings like fringes, bobbles, tassels, frills and pleats stressing the new vogue for traditional feminine decor.
As for silhouettes, London offered 70s-style tiered dresses, fit and flared 50s shapes, Baby Doll tents, long layered capes, lots of tunics and culottes – overall a new and more flamboyant femininity in which black still has a place but highlighted with bold colours like purple, cobalt and mustard.
The 2015 autumn/winter season focus now moves to Milan and Paris.
