For many, the ritual of heading to the Gaeltacht as a teenager holds fond memories of craic, ceol and céilí – even if the actual Irish classes weren’t overly exciting.
With the recent popularity in Irish language and culture – owed, in part, to Belfast rap trio Kneecap – you may be kicking yourself for not paying more attention when you were sent off to Irish college to brush up on your skills. What many don’t know, however, is that you can actually take up a course in the Gaeltacht as an adult, which is exactly where I found myself in late June.
Myself and a couple of friends registered for Gael Linn’s Gaeltacht course for adults in Gaoth Dobhair, Donegal, booked a wee cottage beside Teach Hiúdaí Beag – known for it’s Monday night music sessions with the owner himself taking part – and were on our way.
The week’s schedule is split between classes, social events, cultural evenings and trips to get the know the area – including a boat trip to Gabhla island which, in 2022, had a population of just 15.
RM Block
A short trek around the island is an experience in itself – looking at the abandoned homes, walking alongside sheep and, in the quiet moments between conversations, listening to corncrakes cry with the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean. Hike to the north of the island and take in the views of the Sea Arches, which look like something out of the Algarve, as well as a memorial to two people who lost their lives in 9/11.
The classes themselves, which are held in a University of Galway building in the area, are broken up into six different levels. You choose your ability and, if you feel it’s not for you, moving between the classes is easy.
@theirishtimesnews For many, the ritual of heading to the Gaeltacht as a teenager holds fond memories of craic, ceol and céilí – even if the actual Irish classes weren’t overly exciting. But did you know there are Gaeltacht courses for adults? Irish Times journalist Rebecca Daly recently went to an adult Gaeltacht to brush up on her cúpla focal. Click the link in our bio to read how she got on #gaeltok #gaeltacht #irish #ireland #gaeilge #donegal #irishlanguage #kneecap
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In the evenings, locals and cultural figures tell stories, sing songs and talk about the history of the area. And, of course, afterwards it’s to the pub to practice what you learned that day, get to know your classmates, listen to some local music or practice a few céilí dances.
You’ll find all walks of life on the course. In our group, there were children of Irish emigrants to England – proudly learning their mother tongue with an English accent – people from the likes of France or the US who found themselves living in Ireland and wanting to understand the national language, retirees, students from other countries who have picked up Irish and people like me, who work full-time but after the Leaving Cert, felt the ability to speak the language slipping away over the years.
By the end of the week, you could be best of friends with someone decades your elder or from the other side of the country, exchanging numbers to keep in touch or share information about ciorcal comhrás and Irish-language resources.
One of the week’s highlights is a big course céilí on Friday night, where you’ll be swinging out of people you’ve hardly spoken to and singing in front of a group of strangers despite not having a note in your head. Even this crow – or préachán, as Gaeilge – gave a rendition of Beidh Aonach Amárach with my new friend Colm and a bodhrán to accompany us.
Yes, you will be pushed out of your comfort zone but who cares? With everyone there for the sole purpose of improving their Irish, there is no pressure or embarrassment if you get something wrong. As Ian Mac Gabhann, adult education officer for Gael Linn, put it on our last day, heading off to essentially a week-long summer camp is not something adults do.
But, why not? Heading to the Gaeltacht as an adult has all the giddiness and none of the awkwardness of being a teenager, meaning you can brush up on your Gaeilge, make friends and have plenty of craic in the scenic setting of Donegal.
Gael Linn’s second adult Gaeltacht course of the season takes place in Gaoth Dobhair from August 10-16th, but it is booked out.
