Will Monaghan’s story is one of grit, resilience and pizza. His first restaurant, One Society, on Gardiner Street in Dublin 1, has been a cornerstone of Dublin’s cafe scene for six years, yet, despite stabilising after the turbulence of 2023 – which included the riots that nearly wiped him out – the future is looking less certain. The summer season, usually his busiest, was hit by the economic forces that have besieged restaurateurs around the country, leaving him wondering if the Gardiner Street restaurant has a future beyond January 2025.
But rather than accept defeat, Monaghan has doubled down. He decided to expand, opening Hidden by One Society in Smithfield, Dublin 7 last month. It’s a gamble; a big one. But he is betting everything on this second venture in the premises that was once home to Thundercut Alley, a lively taco joint that packed in weekend crowds. He hopes to win them over now with a concept that is, at its core, very different but perhaps equally appealing – a casual, drop-in-anytime cafe during the day, with an ace brunch menu, changing to Neapolitan-style pizzas and pasta at night.
There are a few sections to the room, but the focal point is the dining counter on a raised area at the back, facing a neat set-up of mirrored shelves with wine bottles and glasses, where you could easily perch with an espresso and something Italian, or settle in solo with a pizza. It’s a space that encourages drop-ins, a casual room with an industrial vibe – polished cement floors, exposed pipes and filament bulbs hanging down over tables by a long banquette opposite the counter. Flames flicker in a large wood-fired pizza oven, visible through one of two service hatches, replacing tacos with bubbling cheese and perfectly charred crusts.
[ Sign up for our Food & Drink Club newsletterOpens in new window ]
There’s a tight, no-nonsense menu of nibbles, sharing plates, pizza and pasta. Sourdough is from Firehouse bakery and charcuterie and salads offer a range of light options. The wine list offers a good choice of wines by the glass, carafe and bottle; and wine flights (€13-€16 for three 125ml glasses) keep things interesting. They feel less like a gimmick and more like a clever idea someone actually thought through. I can see that they’re quite popular in the room. Bottles start at €31; and our waiter advises me that he is happy to pour a sampler if we’d like to taste the wine before we buy it. A bottle of Cepas Turandot (€37) pairs nicely with our food for the evening.
A chef’s Parisian picks: Kevin Burke of Library Street’s recommendations for eating and drinking in Paris
Hidden by One Society restaurant review: Delightful Dublin neighbourhood spot with tasty food and keen prices
Eating out: 19 of the best new restaurants to try around Ireland now
From Mark Moriarty to Yotam Ottolenghi: the best new food books to buy
The oven-roasted Padron peppers with burrata (€14) arrive in a little cast iron dish, swimming in a cherry tomato and caper sauce that has a touch of chilli heat. The peppers, barely cooked, have a nice bite and the burrata is starting to melt, although it could probably have done with a few minutes more to warm it right through. You’ll want to mop up all the sauce with Firehouse sourdough (which we’ve forgotten to order), but the patatas bravas with nduja (€9) sub in nicely – this a dish that threatens heat but settles for a mild rumble. These dishes are decidedly more tapas for sharing rather than straight-up starters.
Quattro formaggi (€16) is one of my favourite pizzas, a pizza bianca that threads the fine line between maintaining enough integrity in the base and maximising the amount of cheese that can be piled on top. Here, it is gloriously excessive, with a charred base, edges that are puffed up with a 48-hour ferment, holding a lake of molten cheese – Toon’s Bridge mozzarella, ricotta, gorgonzola and goat’s cheese.
The Amatriciana (€15) is a big bowl of penne, with a tomato sauce that has just a bit of heat. Crispy strips of guanciale and a light dusting of grated Pecorino Romano make this a solid dish, but not quite at the level of the pizza.
Desserts are simple but inexpensive and, word is, a cake stand is on the way, with more sweet treats being added to the menu. The carrot cake (€5.50) is a monster slice, with crunchy caramelised walnuts on top and enough icing to send anyone home happy.
The atmosphere at Hidden is just right for a neighbourhood spot – relaxed, low-key and buzzing with friends sharing small plates, splitting pizzas, and working through wine flights. It’s the kind of place where you can drop in for a coffee, a quick bite or simply linger over a meal without being hurried out the door.
Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €96.50.
The Verdict: A delightful neighbourhood restaurant with tasty food and keen prices
Food provenance: Firehouse Bakery, Toon’s Bridge, beef from Coogan’s Meats in Trim, and Keelings.
Vegetarian options: Shakshuka with sweet potato wedges, and halloumi and hummus toast on the daytime menu; in the evening there are patatas bravas, flat breads and vegetarian pizza.
Wheelchair access: Fully accessible, with an accessible toilet.
Music: Pleasant and in the background.
