Shaku Maku, according to its website, wants to whisk you away to the “bustling streets of Cairo” and “aromatic souks of Beirut”. Sounds like a lot for a night out in Rathmines, but sure, why not? It’s the posher older sibling of Umi Falafel and Za’atar, opened by Palestinian Adnan Shabab in 2022. But make no mistake, it’s still ultra-casual.
It certainly conjures up those scenes with the aroma, that perfect mix of spice and sizzling meat that has your stomach growling. Evocative smells waft from the row of grills on the left, opposite a stretch of banquettes filled with families, effortlessly sharing food without squabbling over the last swipes of hummus and pitta.
At the back, a covered outdoor area with a pizza oven and bar buzzes with groups catching up over piles of mezze. And honestly, mezze is what you want here. If you’ve ever been to Umi Falafel, you know what’s coming.
We’re tucked away by the window, with a view from our table of Herman & Wilkinson auction rooms. The menu is divided into mezze, “griddle pans” (main courses), grills, manaeesh (Palestinian flatbread topped with za’atar, a spice blend), pizza and sweets, so I get to work, even if we do find it a bit hard to grab the attention of the waiters from our secluded corner.
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With just two of us, the mezze for two (€26) offers the best way to take in the lot. Hummus is tasty and smooth, as you would expect it to be, and the “belahmeh” version comes crowned with lamb chunks, a very fine combination, if it had just a bit more sizzle. The baba ghanoush has a chunky texture and a whiff of smoke. It is lighter in colour than you would usually get; my guess is that there’s some tangy yoghurt in there that plays well with the burst of pomegranate seeds.
The falafel is excellent. But the chicken roll – pulled poultry in phyllo – feels like hard work. The chicken is not free-range, which may have something to do with the monotony of the flavour. The tabbouleh, though, deserves a medal: there’s no padding with an effusive use of bulgur wheat, just loads of fresh parsley, crunchy cucumber, onion and tomato, all zinging in a lemony dressing with a virtuous glow.
We choose a bottle of Malbec (€37) from the perfunctory wine list, but there are pints on tap if you prefer, and a variety of soft drinks.
The rest of the order hits the table, served family-style for maximum dipping and picking. The Shaku mixed grill (€22.50) is, well, mixed. Lamb kofta and beef steak kebabs are decent skewers, though the chicken taouk and kofta are a touch too tame. But the Jordanian lamb mansaf (€19.50) steals the show. It’s a tender lamb shank, slow-cooked and drenched in a garlicky, yoghurt-like sauce that takes me right back to kousa bil laban, a dish of stuffed courgettes in yoghurt that I adore. The rice is top-tier, fragrant with cardamom pods.
For dessert, I stay on the dairy track with a Lebanese rice pudding (€6.50), presented in a plastic takeaway container, topped with a green dusting of crushed pistachios. The rosewater hits hard, but it wraps up the feast rather nicely.
Shaku Maku’s menu is sprawling, and I’d happily dive deeper. The lamb chops, in particular, catch my eye, being zealously devoured by a lone diner nearby, a regular, by the looks of it. The place is ideal for groups, where you can stack up more plates and share in that family-style way. If you’re a big group of students looking to upgrade from your usual takeaway for a special occasion, the dinner for 10 at €35 per person feels like a steal. Just make sure you book the back outdoor area for it.
If you’re looking for a different kind of buzz after dinner, wander over to their “hidden” shisha lounge to finish your night lounging with a drink and a shisha pipe. Perfect for post-meal relaxing if that’s your vibe – or just another excuse to hang out and imagine you’re somewhere more exciting than in Rathmines on a rainy night.
Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €111.
The verdict: Food that will whisk you away to the Levant.
Food provenance: Beef and lamb from Kepak; chicken (not free-range) from Shannon Vale Foods; vegetables from Sysco and Sam Dennigan.
Vegetarian options: Hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh, fattoush, falafel, halloumi, and manaeesh.
Wheelchair access: Accessible room with no accessible toilet.
Music: Lively Arabic.
