Allta
1 Three Locks Square, Dublin, D02 A5W7; allta.ie
Almost a year in, Niall Davidson has settled into his Canal Docks location. A new casual bar and bottle shop has just opened and there are plans for a test kitchen, which is an indication of where his ambitions lie. The food is as spectacular as ever, with freshly landed fish, seafood, pork chops and hunks of beef from six-year old ex-dairy cows cooked over a custom-built Rhys Allen levitation grill. Corinna Hardgrave
Andhra Bhavan
38 Abbey Street Upper, Dublin 1; andhrabhavan.ie
Andra Bhavan has branched out to Abbey Street with its extensive menu of southern Indian dishes and it now has Ireland’s first South Indian cocktail bar. The menu stretches from breakfast-style dosas, idlis, and vadas to heartier fare as the day moves on, such as mixed thali platters, Gutti Vankaya curry, lamb Chettinadu, and birianis. If you know the Marlborough Street original, expect much of the same, with the bonus of cocktails. CH
Big Mike’s
Upper Rock Hill, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 01-5510332, bigmikes.ie
Gaz Smith has built a reputation for seafood and steak that few can rival. His dedication to delivering the freshest seafood extends to rising at the crack of dawn to get the catch direct from local boats, and on busy days, the contents of their indulgent seafood platters can change three to four times. With steaks from Hannan’s, and an extensive wine list, Big Mike’s is a spot for celebrations big and small. Joanne Cronin
Brighton Road
3 Brighton Road, Foxrock, Co Dublin; 01-2897711, brightonroad.ie
Foxrock locals are lucky to have this spot, run by Alan and Elaine Wang. Start with Castletownbere crab on sourdough or pan-fried scallops, and move on to the decadent shellfish risotto. The 45-day dry-aged rib-eye steak, paired with crispy onions and a rich Béarnaise, and sole on the bone are cooked with pinpoint precision. The well-priced wine list rounds off the experience. CH
China Sichuan
The Forum, Ballymoss Road, Sandyford, Dublin 18; 01-2935100, china-sichuan.ie
A long-established fixture in Ireland’s Chinese restaurant scene, China Sichuan offers elevated Sichuan cooking in comfortable surroundings. Second-generation owner Kevin Hui and his team of classically trained chefs have developed a menu that combines the best of Sichuan flavours with Irish ingredients. Look out for beef tenderloin with black pepper and merlot, Sichuan favourite dan-dan noodles or delightful luóbo gao (crispy turnip cubes). JC
Goldie
128 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork; 021-2398720, goldie.ie
Aishling Moore is one of the sharpest culinary talents in the country, her cooking driven by a “whole catch” philosophy that keeps things exciting and unpredictable. Much of her menu depends on what the day boats haul in, allowing her to flex her creative muscles on the fly. Her approach to flavour is as agile as it is bold, starting with Rossmore oysters topped with elderflower vinegar granita, and moving on to larger plates such as pan-roasted hake, paired with tomatillo kakut and a punchy beetroot acchar. CH
Gursha
7a Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2; 083-3153708, Gursha.ie
Gursha operates as a supper club with a €29.90 tasting menu, so you’ll need to book and pay in advance. Prepared by Ethiopian native Yagerenesh Tadesse, (known to all as Mamay), her slow-cooked, berbere-spiced dishes, brimming with onions and chillies, are mostly vegetarian and served family-style on vast platters of injera, the tangy fermented bread made from teff. The food is bold, hearty and shared. Their next big project is brewing Ethiopian honey wine (mead), which is still in the experimental phase. CH
Kicky’s
South Great Georges St, Dublin 2, D02 WK13; 01-9061008. Kickys.ie
Eric Mathews’ and Richie Barrett’s restaurant exploded on to the scene a year ago, making an immediate impact with its fiery cooking and bold flavours. The menu jumps from light bites to sharing plates, with pasta and meats kissed by flames. The potato focaccia with carbonara butter feels almost criminal in its indulgence, while Matthews’ Irish coffee riff on tiramisu is rich and delicious. It’s brash, unapologetic, and full throttle flavour. CH
Library St
101 Setanta Place, Dublin 2; 01-617099, librarystreet.ie
Kevin Burke’s restaurant is the kind of place where getting a table feels like winning the lottery – it’s one of the hottest bookings around. It’s a buzzy room with food that is sharp and inventive. Kick off with small plates such as crispy rabbit paired with sauce gribiche, before graduating to heavier hitters such as hamachi belly. Downstairs, a private diningroom for six-to-10 people can be yours with enough advance notice, and a minimum spend to match the experience. CH
Mae
53 Shelbourne Road, Dublin 4; 01-2313903, maerestaurant.ie
When chef Gráinne O’Keeffe was seeking to name her first restaurant, it was only natural to name it after her late grandmother Mae. It’s housed above the French Paradox wine shop, O’Keeffe’s seasonal cooking complemented by wine pairings sourced from below. The glorious tarte Tatin and selection of handmade knives have become fixtures, and in good news for locals, she has recently added a Friday lunchtime service. JC
Mara
11 O’Connell Street, Waterford; 089-4259696; marawaterford.com
When chef Luis Martin took over the former Old Couch Café, he maintained its quirky nature, all the while putting his Spanish stamp on the menu. Bringing experience from his time in the kitchen at three-Michelin-starred restaurant Cenador de Amos, he seamlessly integrates Irish produce into dishes such as rabbit and carrot escabeche or quail and dark chocolate. Plans are under way with a local farmer to grow vegetables for next year’s menus. JC
Ox
1 Oxford Street, Belfast BT1 3LA; +44 28-90314121, oxbelfast.com
Regardless of whether you are dining during daytime or night-time, the large glass windows at Ox provide a sense of openness to this beautiful, understated room close to the river Lagan. Refurbished in 2023, it is the canvas on which chef Stephen Toman and sommelier Alain Kerloc’h paint their magic. Look out for smoked Ballywalter veal with black garlic or lobster with broad beans and lemon grass. JC
Rúibín
1 Dock Road, Galway; 091-563830, ruibin.ie
Owners Alice Jary and Richard Kennan draw on their vast experience and travels to produce contemporary dishes such as Velvet Cloud labneh and peaches, adorned with glorious green beans and hazelnuts, or flavourful shiitake and tofu dumplings with Szechuan vinegar and roasted seaweed. With bar and restaurant seating, plus a creative cocktail list, and open from lunch to late night, Rúibín is truly a gem in Galway. JC
Sister 7
Fidelity Studio, 79 Queen Street, Dublin 7; 091-637530, fidelitybar.ie
Fidelity Studio is now linked to Fidelity Bar by a sleek interior door, making it easy to drift between the two. Sister 7′s menu, a collab with Big Fan, features dumplings, bao and inventive sharing plates. Don’t skip the “lip sticks”, deep-fried vegetable cakes of fermented rice, celeriac, yam and tofu. DJs spin tunes from a bright orange booth, keeping the energy alive as the night rolls on. CH
The Dunmore
196 Lower Rathmines Road, Dublin 6, DO6 AY77; 01-9695010, thedunmore.ie
The Dunmore is a space built for celebrations – dramatic, lively and perfect for catching up with friends over fresh seafood and sizzling dishes from the charcoal-burning oven. Midweek, the early-evening menu – two/three courses for €29/€35 – is particularly good value, with Duncannon mussels, seafood pie, fire-roasted chicken and a Pat McLoughlin beef burger featuring. For larger groups, the mezzanine is your spot, hosting up to 20 people. CH
The Fern Grill at Knockranny House Hotel
Knockranny House Hotel, Knockranny, Westport, Co Mayo; 098-28600, knockrannyhousehotel.ie
Knockranny has taken a more laid-back approach with the rebranding of La Fougère into The Fern Grill, now focused on relaxed dining, local ingredients and a new cocktail counter. Head chef Seamus Commons fires up daily catches, dry-aged Irish Black Angus, and lamb on the Josper Basque charcoal grill. Choose from the a la carte or the €55, five-course Taste of Knockranny menu. CH
The Glass Curtain
Unit A, Thompson House, MacCurtain Street, Cork; 021-4518659, theglasscurtain.ie
Owner and chef Brian Murray describes his style as “cooked with grá and kissed with a little fire”. Since returning to his native city, he has transformed the former Old Thompsons Bakery building into a modern, stylish restaurant. The menus change regularly, offering dishes of black sole with surf clams or Fitzgerald’s lamb served family style. JC
The Tannery
10 Quay Street, Dungarvan, Co Waterford; 058-45420, tannery.ie
The Tannery has become synonymous with modern Irish cooking, combining a cookery school and elegant town house accommodation with Paul and Máire Flynn’s famous restaurant. Chef Damien Derwin has shouldered Paul’s legacy, maintaining the tradition of hearty and creative food made with local ingredients. The revamped website now makes it easier than ever to book an overnight B&B stay with dinner. JC
Umi Derry
57 Strand Road, Derry BT48 7NW; +44 28-71878399, umiderry.co.uk
Having spent many years travelling the world and working at Belfast’s Yugo, chef Sean Lafferty opened Umi to share his love for Asian flavours. Umi has a vibrant atmosphere that seamlessly reflects the creative food including binchotan grilled Wagyu steak, and crispy dumplings made with local pork and chilli nut oil. They even offer their own wine, Rainbow Pie, a fresh Austrian Blaufränkisch made by ex-employee Jack Mcateer, with plans to add a white wine. JC
Union Wine Bar
11 The Mall, Waterford; 051-574519, unionbar.ie
Morgan VanderKamer, president of the Irish Guild of Sommeliers, co-owns this Waterford spot, so the wine list is exceptional. Her partner, Stephen McArdle, ensures the food is equally impressive. The menu focuses on wild fish and seasonal ingredients, with dishes such as Kilmore Quay crab with pickled cucumber, free-range pork terrine with foie gras, and roasted monkfish with smoked almond romesco and fennel. CH
