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From easy drinking to structured wines: Crozes-Hermitage has it all

John Wilson: Wines from the Northern Rhône vary hugely in price and quality but the overall standard is impressive

Four of a kind: Crozes-Hermitage is the largest appellation in the Northern Rhône.
Four of a kind: Crozes-Hermitage is the largest appellation in the Northern Rhône.

Some of the finest syrah in the world comes from the Northern Rhône. Fragrant and elegant with fresh dark fruits and a savoury note, it varies in body from light and juicy to some of the most structured and age-worthy wines of all. The white wines can be pretty good too.

The Northern Rhône is a small wine region, but most of what it produces is of very high quality. Names such as Hermitage, Côte Rôtie and Condrieu are well known to most wine lovers, but most cost €50 or more. Neighbouring appellations such as Saint-Joseph and Cornas are less expensive, but arguably the best value is Crozes-Hermitage.

Crozes-Hermitage is the largest appellation in the region. Some 90 per cent of the wine produced is red, made exclusively from the Syrah grape variety. The whites can be made from marsanne, roussanne, or a blend of the two. Most wine professionals divide Crozes-hermitage into two; the northern part which is steeper with granitic soils produces more structured, tannic wine, and the south, which is flatter with rounded pebbles and small rocks, where the wines tend to be rounder and softer.

Crozes-Hermitage varies in price and quality from easy-drinking red wines to more structured wines that will age for five-10 years. The overall standard is high. The region is dominated by names such as Jaboulet, Chapoutier, Guigal and others, as well as the Cave de Tain, one of the best co-ops in France. There are plenty of small domaines too.

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Crozes-Hermitage Exploration 2021, Cave de Tain, No added sulphur

12.5%, €16.80 until June 3rd, normal price €21

Plush soft black fruits with a spicy touch and a rounded finish. Very good value for money. Try it with a rare grilled steak.

From: Dunnes Stores.

Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers 2021, Chapoutier, Biodynamic

12.5%, €30

From one of the leading producers in the region, a supple elegant wine with easy dark cherry fruits and light tannins. Try it with lamb chops or firm cheeses.

From: Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown; The Wicklow Wine Company; Next Door at Myles Creek, Kilkee.

Crozes-Hermitage 2021 Domaine Combier

12.5%, €33.50

Very attractive piquant fresh raspberries and redcurrant fruits, with a lovely clean finish. Enjoy alongside posh garlicky sausages with lentils.

From Terroirs, Donnybrook, terroirs.ie.

Crozes-Hermitage 2021, Domaine Graillot
13%, €50-55

From one of the leading producers in the region, this has perfectly ripe supple plum and blackcurrant fruits with a nice grippy finish. Drink now or keep it for 10 years.

From 64 wine, Glasthule; Fallon and Byrne, D2; Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown; SIYPS.com; Green Man Wines, D6.