This week we celebrate four alchemists, true craftspeople who use apples, grapes and other ingredients to make fascinating complex drinks using local produce. One is French, the other three Irish. All have a creative streak that pushes them to make something unique and different. I would love to have found room for Highbank, Dan Kellys, Stonewell, Wicklow Way Wines and David Llewellyn too.
Eric Bordelet, a sommelier in Paris, relocated to Normandy, where he grows a variety of traditional apples and pears on his biodynamic farm. He is a hero to many cidermakers, and his ciders are compelling and nuanced and quite unlike standard commercial ciders. Everyone should try one at least once.
Mark Jenkinson produces a range of very good, award-winning traditional ciders from apples grown in his orchard just outside Slane. He has more than 120 varieties growing there. His Cockagee cider, made using an old Irish variety, is keeved, an ancient method of long, slow, natural fermentation followed by further maturation in bottle.
Killahora produce an eclectic range of apple- and pear-based drinks, including an excellent apple ice wine, as well as some great ciders under the Johnny Fall Down label. Like Jenkinson, they have a collection of varieties; 148 different apples as well as 48 different kinds of pear.
David Dennison grows apples, grapes, blackcurrants, mulberries and a variety of other fruits on his organic farm in Co Waterford. From these, he produces some completely original drinks, including the bottle-fermented Nádúrtha Pet-Nat below, made from Irish grapes.
Eric Bordelet Sydre Argelette
5%, €20
Fragrant, just off-dry and medium-bodied with a racy, complex array of fruits, some light tannins and light mousse. Brilliant cider to enjoy with pork dishes and cheeses.
From Blackrock Cellars; L’Atitude, Cork; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Seagull Bakery, Tramore/Waterford; Lilith Wines, D7; 64 wine, Glasthule.
[ Valpolicella, light and refreshing, is one of the perfect summer wines ]
Cockagee Keeved Cider
5%, €4.95 for a 330cl bottle
A delicious medium- to full-bodied cider full of rich bittersweet apple flavours and an off-dry finish. Serve chilled, but not with ice, on its own or with firm cheeses and charcuterie.
Very widely available through independent off-licences
Killahora Pom’O, Roe & Co cask matured Limited Edition
17%, €29.95
Made from apple brandy and apple juice aged for 12 months in Roe & Co whiskey barrels. Baked apple fruits and subtle hints of whiskey. Serve chilled as an aperitif or in a cocktail.
From Celtic Whiskey, D2; Killahoraorchards.ie
Nádúrtha Pet-Nat No2, Viking Irish Drinks, Organic
9%, €26.95
Lightly effervescent with fresh, subtle, mouth-watering red fruits, an intriguing leesy touch and a rounded finish. An alternative celebration drink, with cheeses or white meats.
From Ardkeen, Waterford; Worldwide Wines, Waterford; Cass and Co Dungarvan; Urru, Bandon; Quish’s, Tramore, Vikingirishdrinks.com
[ What’s so special about Chablis and why is it always so pricey?Opens in new window ]
