A shoulder-high glass wall wraps around the Rooftop Bar at luxury hotel Anantara The Marker in the Dublin docklands. From the seventh floor, the vista takes in Dún Laoghaire, the Wicklow Mountains, the curves of the Aviva Stadium and the iconic Poolbeg chimneys.
Ludo de Jong, general manager and Dutchman who has lived in Ireland for nearly a year, and Gareth Mullins, long time executive head chef are two of the driving forces behind the revamped Rooftop Bar.
The rooftop is split into outdoor and indoor areas. Outdoors can accommodate about 100 guests across a variety of different seating styles, ranging from low-slung wood-framed couches under awnings, standard wicker chairs more suitable for dining, deep-cushioned bamboo armchairs and finally, beanbag loungers around the firepit. When I suggest that they might be challenging after a few drinks, de Jong jokes, “Our service is so good, we’ll lift you right out of them.”
The glass-walled indoor area seats 30 people in a more traditional restaurant space with a mix of high table and banquette seating, all in an elegant neutral and wood-coloured palette, enlivened by splashes of colour here and there. The large south-facing glass front can open back fully in good weather, while power outlets are available under the banquette seating.
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De Jong says the Anantara hotel group was founded by American-born Thai businessman Bill Heinecke, so they have drawn on that Thai influence for the cocktail and food menu.
“We have some very nice cocktails with storylines behind them that connect to our Thai heritage, but will be enjoyed in Dublin surroundings with an Irish touch.”
The cocktail menu was developed by head bartender Antonio Perez and features a range of signature cocktails, with prices starting from €18 (€12 for non-alcoholic). Drinks include Elephants: Love and Bananas, a bourbon-based cocktail inspired by elephant conservation in Thailand and making clever use of leftover banana skins from the hotel.
Storm in Bangkok gently tingles with Sichuan pepper before easing into fresh flavours of galangal and Kaffir lime. However, it’s the complex mocktail Leo’s Harvest that really stands out, with tart cherries and apple, finished with smoky Lapsang Souchong tea.
The menu also has a range of classic cocktails, spritzes, champagnes –including house favourite Ayala, plus wines, beers, spirits and non-alcoholic drinks.
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As executive head chef, Mullins is excited to have a new restaurant in the hotel.
“It’s important to us that each of our food and beverage outlets in the hotel has its own identity. Forbes Street, our main restaurant, is a celebration of Irish produce, but The Rooftop is completely different. I lived and cooked in Australia for seven years and developing this menu has taken me right back to that time. The whole kitchen team has been energised by getting a chance to work with new ingredients.”
The menu originated with only Thai dishes, but as Mullins and team developed and tweaked it, things took on a more pan-Asian influence. It is a menu designed to complement the cocktails, perfect for grazing and sharing.
“It’s not a structured service; the dishes will come from the kitchen when ready. I’m delighted to have a small kitchen up here with one to two chefs on duty for our guests.”
In addition to the new kitchen, there are plans to add a herb garden and beehives, allowing the hotel to serve its own produce to guests.
Mullins is especially proud of dishes such as the hand-dived scallops, seared Irish Wagyu teriyaki and “spicebag” potatoes.
“The scallops are served with an incredible oxtail-infused soy sauce from Japan, Flaggy Shore oysters come with a Thai nahm Jim, while the Spicebag potatoes are our tribute to Dublin.”
De Jong and Mullins both identify the crispy gochujang chicken as their favourite dish. Prices range from €8 to €24.
“We’ve already had a lot of interest from our local corporate customers who tend to come here on Wednesdays and Thursdays. From Friday onwards, the mix is more locals, tourists and of course, our residents,” says de Jong.
The Rooftop Bar is fully and partially available for private hire, with a modified version of the main menu on offer.
“When the sun sets, with that orange glow throughout the sky, it’s the best place to be,” says de Jong.
The Rooftop is open from 5pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays, 3pm Fridays and Saturdays and from 1pm on Sundays. From June it will be open seven days a week with extended hours on select days.
