As cooler evenings draw in, we begin to eat differently. When leaves begin to contemplate drifting off branches to return to the earth, it’s time to make a stew. Beans are one of my favourite ingredients. There is a vast amount of different beans and they’re extremely versatile.
Many variations of bean stew are eaten all over the world, from the Portuguese version of feijoada to France’s cassoulet. Feijoada (pronounced fay-jwa-da) is often cited as the national dish of Brazil. It owes its name to its main ingredient, black beans (feijão). Feijoada is usually a meaty stew with beans and different cuts of pork or beef. It can be the ultimate zero waste dish as it’s traditionally made from parts of the pig such as feet and ears, as well as bacon and a Brazilian sausage called linguica, similar to chorizo.
Here I’ve made a delicious vegetarian version, but you do have to enrich it to replace the fats and depth that is missing from the meats. This is easily done by using smoked sweet paprika, earthy cumin and a touch of sour sweetness from balsamic vinegar. Soya sauce, not typically added, brings some umami to this meat-free version. This combination is similar to Filipino adobo, with the balance of sweet, salty and sour with bay leaves.
Feijoada is traditionally served with rice, collard greens (sautéed kale makes a good substitute), some slices of orange to balance the rich stew and farofa, which is toasted cassava flour with bacon bits.
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Some cooks thicken feijoada by mashing a few beans or blending half with a stick blender. You can also leave it as is to have a stew with beans in a thick dark gravy. This dish is ideal to make in large batches as it freezes well and will keep in the fridge for up to five days.
Some families add chopped tomatoes or tomato purée to their feijoada. To others this is sacrilege. It is always the case with much loved recipes that there are variations among different households or different regions. Either way, this is a thick, healthy, comforting version of those Brazilian black beans, feijoada.
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Recipe: Feijoada (Brazilian black bean stew)
Lilly’s kitchen tips:
- Buy dried beans in bulk. They’re much cheaper than tinned and can be soaked before being cooked in a slow cooker for six to seven hours on low, or in a pressure cooker. They can also be cooked on the hob once soaked for 60-90 minutes. Low and slow is best.
- Enrich soups, sauces and gravies by adding a tablespoon of butter.
- If you’re cooking beans from dried then save the broth. It’s so delicious and nutritious. Use it as you would vegetable stock; it makes a great base for soup or a pasta sauce.
