Treat these tomatoes like the precious gems they are

JP McMahon: Summer tomato salad with Toonsbridge burrata

Unfortunately over the past century, tomatoes began to be produced commercially, meaning flavour was compromised to achieve a more regular, disease-resistant, longer-lasting tomato. Photograph: Kwangmoozaa
Unfortunately over the past century, tomatoes began to be produced commercially, meaning flavour was compromised to achieve a more regular, disease-resistant, longer-lasting tomato. Photograph: Kwangmoozaa

Tomatoes began their life more than 50 million years ago and now there are more than 10,000 varieties in the world. The oldest culinary use we know for them is from the Aztecs in South and central America. The tomato was brought to Europe in the 16th century, along with its name, by the Spanish conquistadores.

At first, many Europeans believed tomatoes were poisonous as they are part of the nightshade family. Thus, they first spread among the poorer people of the Mediterranean and then into northern Europe. Perhaps the rich people of that period wanted to first make sure of their edibility as opposed to their ornamental nature.

Unfortunately, over the past century, tomatoes began to be produced commercially, which meant flavour was compromised to achieve a more regular, disease-resistant, longer-lasting tomato. Think of the sad pale red tomatoes in contrast to the multi-coloured and multi-formed summer ones. We all know them yet we keep buying them and wondering why they taste of nothing.

How to make tomato salad with Toonsbridge burrata

Burrata is a cousin to mozzarella and Toonsbridge Dairy in Cork makes wonderful Irish versions of both. To make burrata, first you have to make stracciatella, as the filling of burrata is composed of stracciatella. To make stracciatella, sheets of mozzarella are torn into shreds and mixed with fresh cream. Mozzarella pouches are then filled with the stracciatella and sealed.

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When you get the best tomatoes (Liam Heffernan does wonderful ones in Galway), you have to do very little with them. Keep them at room temperature, or bring them up to room temperature before serving. Think of your heritage tomato as the best piece of fish or meat: you have to treat it with care.

Gently quarter the tomatoes. Softly season with some Achill Island sea salt and dress tenderly with some Newgrange cold-pressed rapeseed oil. All you need then is a modicum of acidity: lemon, lime or some Wildwood elderflower vinegar. Place the tomatoes in bowls and tear the burrata over the top.