China is a better place to live than outsiders give it credit for. I moved to the country in 2016, and although I don’t claim to love it, there’s much to enjoy.
In addition to the Great Wall and Forbidden City, there are stunning sights like the Shanghai Bund skyscrapers, Tiger Leaping Gorge, the mountains of Sichuan, or the sea of clouds at sunrise from the top of Yellow Mountain.
Many foreigners end up staying here for years, encouraged by strong salaries, employer-funded apartments, private schooling for their kids, affordable living and a sense of optimism and opportunity
There is a huge wow factor the first time you ride the world’s fastest magnetic elevation train as it glides silently from Pudong airport into Shanghai city at 400km/h. Irish Rail users would adore China’s marvellous rail network, where speeds of more than 330km/h are common and the ultrapunctual trains are so smooth that your coffee never spills.
The country prioritises convenience. Using cash is extremely rare: apps such as WeChat and Alipay cover many everyday tasks. Taxis are supercheap, and shopping is mostly online.
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Many foreigners end up staying here for years, encouraged by strong salaries, good conditions, employer-funded apartments, private schooling for their kids, affordable living and a sense of optimism and opportunity. Socially, the expat community enjoys varied lifestyles, strong friendships, regular dream holidays and a bit of a buzz. For young westerners used to subsistence wages and horrendous living costs, Asia can be a godsend.
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I moved to China to teach English at a Sino-British university in Suzhou (once known as Soochow), a small village of 10.8 million people. I was apprehensive, as I had no connections there and had previously visited China only as a tourist, although I had taught in Korea, Japan and Cambodia.
Suzhou has long been famous for its canals and industry. Its silk making, which was noted by Marco Polo in the 13th century, remains prominent, but the city now also manufactures everything from electric vehicles to nanotechnology to elevators. Suzhou Industrial Park is home to countless foreign multinationals, even our own Glanbia.
In some Asian cultures, a tendency to avoid getting involved in other peoples’ problems can lead to some shocking stories of bystanders not intervening or good Samaritans being sued for helping. That’s not the case in China
The city has a very high standard of living, with pleasant parks, lakes and walking tracks. In fact it is almost a Pleasantville, with virtually no petty crime or antisocial behaviour. I often saw expensive laptops unattended, and they were never stolen.
Another good trait here is helpfulness. In some Asian cultures, people tend to avoid getting involved in other peoples’ problems, which can lead to some shocking stories of bystanders not intervening or good Samaritans being sued for helping. But if you show clearly that you need help, locals will happily give you a lift or a helping hand, or offer a translation.
Prepandemic, Suzhou boomed. From 2016 to 2019, life buzzed with merry nights out, glorious singsongs, St Patrick’s festivities, concerts, group trips to mountains, raucous pool parties and regular get-togethers. It lacked the nightlife and sophistication of Shanghai but instead had an amicable, small-town feel.
Many expats developed strong friendships through activities such as running, rugby, pool, salsa and hiking. The local Gaelic football team has players from all over Europe, China, Africa and the Caribbean. It was brilliant to see love of the game developing in beginners, especially women, who found it welcoming. A Taiwanese friend says she never enjoyed team sports until she found Gaelic.
During the worst of the pandemic, the main restriction was on travel, making leaving Suzhou difficult and overseas trips practically impossible. The rules were tedious, but hearing about the struggles at home made expats feel better off
During the worst of the pandemic, in 2020 and 2021, China was often the place to be. While Europe was grappling with shocking death tolls, businesses in China were mostly open as normal, and there were only some requirements to show your Covid QR code and travel history. The main restriction was on travel, making leaving the city difficult and overseas trips practically impossible. The rules were tedious, but hearing about the struggles at home made expats feel better off.
From summer 2020 until late 2021 Suzhou reported very few cases. The authorities had very sophisticated infrastructure, including mandatory phone apps, cheap and convenient test centres, and thousands of volunteers. They wanted to beat Covid and wanted everyone know it.
Being stuck in Vietnam gave us time to explore Lili’s beautiful home country. Eight months later, on a damp chilly evening on a hotel balcony in Da Lat, I proposed and was accepted
My own experience of the pandemic was remarkable. In spring 2019, on a hash run, I met a beautiful, smart funny expat woman who worked nearby. We eventually became friendly, and in January 2020 we flew to Lili’s native Saigon for a wedding. The next day news emerged of China’s border closing, so for the next eight months we were forced to stay in Vietnam, working entirely online.
The difficulties of that, and of living from a suitcase — plus bit of workplace jealousy — made this professionally tedious and frustrating, but it allowed us to explore Lili’s beautiful home country. We spent our downtime visiting tropical islands, old French hill stations and some of the world’s biggest caves. We ate glorious food and connected with family.
Eight months later, on a damp chilly evening on a hotel balcony in Da Lat, I proposed and was accepted.
We soon returned to China, completed the mandatory two weeks of hotel quarantine separately, and returned to our lives in Suzhou. Last Christmas we had a civil wedding in Shanghai, and last June we had a Catholic wedding (with only about 20 days’ notice).
As 2022 began there was much hope for renewed normality. In February, however, there were small Covid outbreaks locally, meaning sudden lockdowns and returning to online teaching. Case numbers remained modest, but teleworking became normal, malls and restaurants were shut, and daily testing became mandatory. In our compound a testing tent was set up at the gate. Nobody could leave each morning without a throat swab.
Shanghai was open as normal at the time, but the sudden Covid outbreak in March caused nerves. My wife and I had briefly visited Shanghai in early March, and we tested negative on our return home. But news arrived days later of an outbreak in Shanghai. Our apartment managers knew our travel history and wanted to lock us inside our home for seven days. We talked them out of it.
Last March the situation in Shanghai deteriorated dramatically, and although our local situation never became as extreme, there was widespread anxiety.
Occasionally I saw subway passengers change seats to avoid me, as some people blamed foreigners for bringing the virus to China. Anti-western distrust became noticeable, and, anecdotally, students’ enthusiasm for English declined
During lockdown, we made use of our time with work, jogging and the very occasional meet-up with friends. Occasionally I saw subway passengers change seats to avoid me, as some people blamed foreigners for bringing the virus to China. Anti-western distrust became noticeable, and, anecdotally, students’ enthusiasm for English declined. There is also an ongoing crisis in banking and real estate, which has not particularly affected Suzhou but could lead to an economic downturn.
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There were many bad luck stories during the pandemic. One Irish friend was separated from his wife and child for two years. A friend from Britain travelled back there for Christmas, waited six weeks to find a return flight, but then tested positive on their layover in Singapore, where they were then stranded for three months.
A German friend flew for four hours to visit Tibet, but a sudden Covid outbreak meant he had to leave after 24 hours, so he jumped on a three-hour flight to Sichuan. The same thing happened again, so he returned to Suzhou after less than three days of holiday.
It became clear that the good years were over. By the time Suzhou reopened in May this year, hundreds of expats had opted to leave.
With workplaces becoming increasingly negative, and friends departing, my wife and I headed to her home country of Vietnam. As you read this we may just have landed in the Netherlands, where I’m starting a new job.
With luck we can visit Ireland together soon, although I’m sad at the thought that some older relatives and several neighbours will no longer be there. Hopefully, new adventures and better times await.
If you live overseas and would like to share your experience with Irish Times Abroad, email abroad@irishtimes.com with a little information about you and what you do
