What’s in a name? Rather a lot, when it comes to protecting local food or drink products unique to a geographical region. Since 1992, the European Union has offered producers the opportunity to register a product for one of several Geographical Indication (GI) schemes. Registration protects against imitation by competitors and, in preserving production processes and standards, against dilution of a product’s identity. Cheddar cheese is an example of an unprotected product whose identity has become thoroughly diluted - unlike, say, Stilton.
Nearly 70 per cent of all registered GIs relate to wine or spirits, and 80 per cent come from countries with a strong wine-producing culture. The two main schemes relating to food products are Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). The former covers food products which are produced, processed and prepared in a given geographical area using recognised know-how (think Parma ham). The latter covers those which are either produced, processed or prepared within the area to which they have an inherent link (think Cornish pasty).
Of the more than 1000 registered food GIs, just four are Irish (Imokilly Regato cheese, Clare Island salmon, Connemara Hill lamb and Timoleague brown pudding), with two more currently in the pipeline (the Waterford blaa and Irish salmon).
Why so few? Sharon Murphy of the Department of Agriculture, Food and the Marines/Fisheries suggests that what is in essence a “collective trademark” will not suit the strategies of many Irish producers.
“In Europe a type of cheese will be made traditionally in an area by maybe ten or fifteen families, but Irish food producers tend to be highly individualistic.” However, there can be strength in numbers. Dermot Walsh of the Waterford Blaa Bakers’ Association says that “Working together as a producer group has allowed us to raise awareness of our speciality product”, securing a future both for local bakeries and for a local tradition.