Legenderry, the Maiden city, Derry, Londonderry – call it what you like as long as you keep returning. That’s the ethos of most people working in the tourism industry in this walled city, which is compact, easy to navigate and steeped in an abundance of history.
A cold wind is often blowing in from the banks of the Foyle as you walk the 400-year-old walls of Derry, but the sun is shining, both literally and metaphorically, on the day we visit. With just 110,000 inhabitants, community relations are good, something the city is immensely proud of. There is a buzz about town and at each new place you visit, be it a bar, restaurant, shop or museum, the locals are eager to chat. Don’t bother trying to “houl your whisht”’, craic and banter are expected here.
A walking tour will take in a lot of the city’s sights; beautiful old buildings including St Columb’s Cathedral; St Eugene’s Cathedral; St Columba’s Long Tower; St Augustine’s and First Derry Presbyterian Church.
Learn about everything from the 6th century Christian settlement to the siege of 1689 up to the modern-day Troubles, including the city’s darkest day Bloody Sunday. www.derrycitytours.com
You’ll see the murals of the Bogside and Fountain areas in the distance from inside the protective walls. Make your way outside them, towards the Bogside, where the Museum of Free Derry is located in Glenfada park.
It exists to tell the story of what happened in the city during the period 1968–1972 and, in particular, the events of January 30th, 1972, Bloody Sunday. This is a poignant and carefully curated exhibition, right at the site of the atrocities, with the story told from the point of view of the people who were most involved in and affected by the events – the Free Derry community. www.museumoffreederry.org
Back inside the walls The Guildhall was built in the 1880s and is a magnificent example of the neo-gothic style of the period. The stained-glass windows capture some of the most important events in the city, while the main hall regularly hosts concerts and plays as well as private events.
Currently on display is a collection of the peace accolades awarded to the late John Hume, the only person to receive all three peace prizes: the 1998 Nobel Peace Prize, jointly awarded to Hume and Sir David Trimble for their role in the Northern Ireland peace process;, the Martin Luther King Jnr Non-Violent Prize awarded in 1999; and the Mahatma Gandhi Peace Prize, given in 2001.
Don’t miss the plantation exhibition with a host of interesting artefacts on show, bringing to life the colonisation of Ulster during the reign of King James I. www.guildhallderry.com
For a spot of shopping make your way to the Foyleside Centre where a stop at the Derry Girls mural for a selfie is a must. Dine at Pyke ‘N’ Pomme, which started out as a food truck when eating indoors wasn’t an option but now is located in a permanent building on Strand Street, serving delicious tacos, burgers, fish specials- all very reasonably priced with fun, eager staff.
Interestingly, the now closed Austin’s, located in the Diamond, remained standing as the world’s oldest independent department store when it closed its doors in 2016. Built in 1830, the newer Edwardian-style baroque exterior – built in 1906, by MA Robinson, after the original building was destroyed by fire – is worth a look.
Only 14 minutes west of Derry is the Wild Ireland Sanctuary. Killian McLaughlin dreamed of starting an animal sanctuary since boyhood, and in 2019, after studying law, those dreams became a reality when he acquired 23 acres of land just across the Border in Burnfoot, Co Donegal. Killian has rescued many animals from abusive situations around the world, wanting to give them a second chance at life in a safe, natural environment.
While you might be thinking cats and dogs, as the name of his Netflix documentary The Bearman of Buncrana suggests, Killian had more audacious plans for the sanctuary. It now is home to two brown bears, Donnancha and Rionnacha; three wolves, Fergus, Finn and Oisin; a Lynx called Naoise; seven wild boars; red deer; barn owls – the list goes on.
You’ll be greeted by the slightly discombobulating sound of wolves howling in the wild, a cry that hasn’t been heard on our shores in over 2,000 years when wolves were last native to Ireland. Killian is passionate about the care of each of the animals in his charge and this is a fun, educational experience for both adults and children. www.wildireland.org
Fort Dunree is a half-hour drive further north on the Inishowen peninsula, and was an important defensive site down through history. Today there is a military museum housed in a building jutting out into Lough Swilly. This is an area of stunning natural beauty, and during the summer sea kayaking is available around the craggy shoreline. The views are worth the drive alone.
The museum first opened in 1986 and is now looked after by a local community group. There are exciting plans to expand it having received €12.5 million in funding from Fáilte Ireland and Donegal Council, which will transform the site, with an inclined elevator taking visitors to the Top Fort as well as spectacular walkways strategically placed to take advantage of the views of the rugged wild Atlantic coastline. www.fortdunree.com
You can’t go to Donegal without visiting one of its many beaches, over 100 in fact. Not far from Dunree is Lady’s Bay in Buncrana or Port Ban at Dunree head. Further north still is Portsalon, once voted second most beautiful beach in the world. Many of these coves and inlets resemble tropical paradises when the sun shines, and are excellent for a spot of sea swimming, paddle boarding, canoeing or as, one local said, a great place to have viewed those recent Northern Lights from. Donegal, it has it all.
Stay:
Castle Grove is a beautiful Georgian house situated on the banks of Lough Swilly outside Letterkenny. With 15 guest bedrooms, each room is individually and tastefully decorated with rare antiques. Sleep on the finest Egyptian cotton sheets, take a stroll around the gardens, or sip on afternoon tea in one of the two drawing rooms overlooking the lake. This really is a relaxing, elegant home from home when visiting the northwest region. Homegrown and locally-sourced fare is served in the large diningroom and a port and cheeseboard in front of one of the roaring fires is a great way to end the evening. www.castlegrove.com
Bishop’s Gate Hotel is as central as it gets, conveniently located on one of the main streets in Derry. With a buzzing bar serving delicious cocktails, it really is the place to see and be seen while in the city. Staff are extremely attentive and more than that, are willing to go the extra mile, tailoring meals to your liking. The food is excellent, with exciting fish starters and game for main course. Rooms are comfortable, with some overlooking the beautiful grounds of St Columb’s Cathedral. www.bishopsgatehotelderry.com
