PARIS FASHION WEEK: Naoki Takizawa for Issey Miyake always follows his own stellar path, introducing original and often poetic concepts season after season.
His winter 05 collection, using black and white models, was prompted by a Japanese black and white movie whose beauty and chiaroscuro effects he decided to try and recreate in clothes. Like the artist that Takizawa is, many of his ideas were realised literally on canvas, soft unbleached cotton being a favoured fabric.
Like two sides of the same coin, a white model in a white greatcoat braided with black grosgrain stood back to back with a black model in a black trench coat. Two pinstripe suits trimmed with silk had sheer black and white ruffled shirts or black crochet T-shirts. Even the models' faces were spray-shadowed for added effect.
With the dexterity of a draughtsman, he outlined the curve of a seam with tiny frilled lingerie ribbon, as if gently stressing female shapeliness, or highlighted the joinery of a white coat in black tracery. Dresses with curved bibs of sequins never looked garish or strident and fur boots laced with thick satin added flamboyance to a confident stride. What seemed more medieval than modern was a long hooded monastic robe in cream canvas, but as the lights dimmed, the bodice of a white metallic mousseline dress dramatically lit up in the darkness making for a sensational, technological finale.
A young French designer who deserves to be better known in Ireland is Isabel Marant. Her name is familiar to the hip and trendy 20- and 30-year-olds in Paris who turn out in force for her shows and were undeterred by yesterday's snow. A lot of her success lies in her cool and clever styling, but she can rework familiar classics with a fresh eye and great vitality and imagination. This was a beautiful collection.
Waistcoats trimmed with fur, like mini Afghans, were a strong feature and worn over everything from printed silk dresses to thick cabled sweaters. One jacket was an unlikely multi-ethnic mixture of Navajo motifs, wool check and leopardskin, but it worked and looked handsome and flamboyant. Best of all was her combination of black reefer jackets with black and gold-sequinned skirts and matching bandannas.
Fur has been widespread in the Paris collections and if Stella McCartney is famous for her objection to using it, another designer called Stella Cadente certainly has no inhibitions about animal hides on the catwalk.
Her show yesterday, with its hot clashing colours and metallic fabrics, targeted fur and feathered rock chicks with gold sequinned leg warmers, fur-trimmed full skirts, gold leather trench coats and pleated tulle skirts in sunset shades of orange, pink and yellow. Red tights, gold high heels and elaborate tiaras added to the voltage.
