Season's rag parade kickstarts with military styles and the mini

Omagh-born, Paris-based designer Sharon Wauchob will be among the new names gracing the Arnotts fashion floor this autumn

Omagh-born, Paris-based designer Sharon Wauchob will be among the new names gracing the Arnotts fashion floor this autumn. Her knits - both chunky and delicate, were outstanding at the store's autumn/winter show in Dublin yesterday.

Very urban with an edgy undertone, they were also elegant, with several pieces making clever use of beading.

Her clothes will appear odd to some. Streams of fabric flow from one black, knee-length woollen dress, the eclectic look lifted with gold beading like a necklace around the neckline. At €520, this was her average price.

Various themes inform other collections - the military look, the mini skirt. And the cropped trouser evolves from the summer boating look to lean urban, teamed with pattern tights and Mary Jane heels or fur-lined boots.

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Luminous lime greens and hot pinks were present - even in the tweeds - with earthy tones of charcoal and dusty rose present in the other key fabrics this season, velvet and tulle.

Tweed again has a strong presence, with St Martin, Miss Sixty and the really good value label Full Circle all offering big tailored trousers and fitted, hip-skimming jackets for between €70 and €200.

The waist is this season's erogenous zone. Tailoring is the statement, with big belts pulling long cardigans, coats and jackets in to emphasise the waist.

The floral and the floaty - in full, tiered skirts from Morgan at €90 and gorgeous purple and turquoise floral silks from Ted Baker at €115 - were there for those after the feminine look.

There were pretty, shrug-like cardigans and sweaters in pink or apple-green mohair - a big look in Miss Sixty at between €85 and €125 - and the sumptuous devore and velvets, particularly from Stills and Principles .

From Pucci, electric-blue, lime-green and orange-striped tights were being wittily mismatched with mini-skirts, cropped trousers and military-style shirt-dresses.

Kitty Holland

Kitty Holland

Kitty Holland is Social Affairs Correspondent of The Irish Times