Berlin in the 1930s was the theme of Richard Lewis's autumn/winter collection, shown last night in the art deco surroundings of the former Gas Company headquarters in Dublin (now the Trinity College Dublin school of nursing).
Accompanied by a Slovakian cafe orchestra, the opening white-tie and tails ensemble in wool jersey and organza and complete with bowler hat set the mood of rakish night-time glamour. "It's a slightly decadent, but slightly ladylike look at the same time," Lewis said. "The l930s was very stylish and very elegant and it was a time when the newly discovered bias cut was used to flatter the figure."
The small 25-piece collection majored in little black dresses pepped up with dress clips and period-style jewellery by Jean Cashman or glamorous faux-fur throws. New this season was a black jersey flock printed like wallpaper, which was used for cocoon coats, and shawl-collared smoking jackets that were anchored with his signature cummerbunds. The sinuous matt jersey dresses for which Lewis is best known came in shades of blackberry and brick, decorated with silk appliqué flowers. A red evening sheath had Fortuny-style pleats - a fabric he also used for simple cardigan-style jackets.
An enduring favourite among his clientele is the "half casual, half formal" boucle evening sweater worn with a full or bias-cut skirt, and a flame red one rounded off the show.
The collection will be exhibited at the Knitting and Stitching Exhibition at the RDS from November 2nd to 5th.
