Kennedy's collection displays new sobriety

“I WANTED it to be a black season,” designer Louise Kennedy said yesterday, as she unveiled her autumn-winter collection in her…

“I WANTED it to be a black season,” designer Louise Kennedy said yesterday, as she unveiled her autumn-winter collection in her Merrion Square headquarters.

“We have used very clean, sculptural shapes and kept necklines unadorned,” she said. The new sobriety showed in a greater emphasis on dresses, simple elegant affairs in double-faced black crepe with tiny black jet or floral decor, or in jersey in solid shades of chocolate or plum with ruffle detail.

While prices still remain in the luxury bracket – a beautiful inky blue sequin dress was €1,895, for example, the jersey numbers, including some in an abstract paisley print, retail at €495 and are proving popular among younger customers.

Kennedy also confirmed yesterday that her “pop up store” in Kildare Village shopping outlet will open next Wednesday, fitted out with limestone flooring like a miniature version of her London boutique. This will sell previous season’s stock at substantially discounted prices and is a new departure for the designer.

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“It is an interesting experience and in these hard times every small company is looking at cash flow and revenue streams. This is a terrific opportunity for us because of its sophisticated retail environment,” she added.

Though relocation of her Limerick warehouse is cited as the main reason for this venture, it doesn’t hide the fact that all luxury businesses in the current climate face increasing pressure in a downward market.

Kennedy’s plans to open a wedding boutique in Merrion Street, however, are to go ahead before Christmas, as is her bespoke service and a home fragrance project. Her winter collection, while still offering opulent items like fur-collared cashmere coats, is more focused this season on affordable everyday dressing for the executive business traveller.

Her collection is in Brown Thomas; 56 Merrion Square; and at the Ritz Carlton in Powerscourt, Co Wicklow.

Deirdre McQuillan

Deirdre McQuillan

Deirdre McQuillan is Irish Times Fashion Editor, a freelance feature writer and an author